Modern Chinese$$$chinatownWed-Sun 17:30-22:30, closed Mon-Tue
Bao Bei on Keefer Street since 2010 is Tannis Ling's modern Chinese brasserie, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2022, the city's reference natural-wine Chinese.
Signature: Shao bing pork belly, Mantou with chicken, Spicy peanut noodles
Order: Shao bing pork belly bun with the spicy peanut noodles; pair with a sake highball.
Tip: No reservations; the bar walks in from 17:30. Sunday evening is the easier seat.
Thai$$$kitsilanoTue-Sat 17:00-22:00, closed Sun-Mon
Maenam on West 4th since 2009 is chef Angus An's modern Thai room, Michelin recommended 2022, the city's reference Bangkok-meets-BC kitchen.
Signature: Crispy oyster pad Thai, Spot prawn curry, Whole Fraser Valley duck
Order: The crispy oyster pad Thai with the chef's tasting; chef Angus An runs the kitchen.
Tip: Reservations on OpenTable open 30 days out; the bar walks in for pad Thai and a Tiger beer.
Japanese sushi$$$$south-granvilleMon-Sat 17:00-22:00, closed Sundays
Tojo's on West Broadway runs chef Hidekazu Tojo's omakase since 1988, the kitchen credited with inventing the California roll and the BC roll.
Signature: Tojo's omakase, BC roll, Spot prawn nigiri
Order: The omakase at the sushi counter; chef Hidekazu Tojo invented the BC roll here in 1974.
Tip: The omakase counter books two weeks out on OpenTable; the dining room takes shorter notice.
Japanese sushi$$$$downtownDaily 11:30-22:00
Miku on Granville with a Coal Harbour patio has popularised flame-seared aburi sushi in Vancouver since 2008, sister to Minami room in Yaletown.
Signature: Aburi salmon oshi sushi, Aburi prime ebi oshi, Sashimi tower
Order: The Aburi salmon oshi sushi, the dish that defined Miku and aburi-style sushi in Vancouver.
Tip: Patio bookings on OpenTable need a month for summer Saturdays; lunch walks in. Try Minami in Yaletown if Miku is full.
Seafood$$$$yaletownDaily 17:00-22:00
Blue Water Cafe in Yaletown under chef Frank Pabst since 2000 is Vancouver's reference seafood room, Ocean Wise certified and an Unsung Heroes host.
Signature: Seafood tower, Wild BC salmon, Sablefish
Order: The seafood tower with raw oysters, plus the wild BC sablefish from the wood grill.
Tip: The raw bar walks in early evening; the dining room books a week out on OpenTable. February's Unsung Heroes menu is the calendar event.
Pacific Northwest$$$$gastownTue-Sun 17:30-23:00, closed Mondays
L'Abattoir on Carrall Street in Gastown since 2010 has run chef Lee Cooper's French-leaning kitchen and a reference cocktail program, Michelin recommended.
Signature: Steak tartare, Smoked sablefish, Pacific oysters
Order: Steak tartare at the bar with a Sazerac and Pacific oysters from the cold table.
Tip: The bar takes walk-ins for the cocktail menu and snacks; the dining room books on OpenTable two weeks out.