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Asian fusionLittle Italy
DaiLo on College is chef Nick Liu's modern Chinese kitchen since 2014, big-flavour Cantonese-meets-Sichuan plates with a strong cocktail bar program.
OrderThe truffle fried rice and the Hakka tasting menu.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The upstairs bar takes walk-ins; main room books on OpenTable.
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DalmatianYorkville
Joso's on Davenport has run Dalmatian Adriatic seafood in Yorkville since 1967, founded by Joso Spralja and now operated by Leo and Shirley Spralja.
OrderThe black risotto with squid and the grilled prawns with garlic butter.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The painting on Drake's Take Care album hangs upstairs; book a Saturday table for the full room.
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MediterraneanKing West
Byblos Downtown on Duncan Street is Charles Khabouth's Eastern Mediterranean room since 2014, family-style plates across the historic Storys Building.
OrderThe mezze board to start and a wood-grilled main from the menu.
TipThe first-floor bar runs spritzes from 16:00 and accepts walk-ins. Second floor needs a reservation.
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GreekOssington
Mamakas Taverna on Ossington is owner Thanos Tripi's 85-seat Aegean kitchen since 2015, traditional Greek taverna cooking from scratch each day.
OrderThe whole grilled fish, dressed Aegean style with lemon and olive oil.
TipSister Bar Mordecai sits next door for a pre-dinner drink. Weekend lunch runs into early dinner without a break.
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ThaiKing West
Khao San Road on Charlotte Street has run Bangkok-style street food downtown since 2011, the boat noodles and crispy pad see ew the city standard.
OrderThe boat noodles with beef and the pad see ew with extra char.
TipReservations the only way in for dinner; lunch walks in. Closed Sunday lunch.
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ThaiKing West
Pai on Duncan is chef Nuit Regular's northern Thai kitchen since 2014, the khao soi from Chiang Mai that set Toronto's modern Thai standard.
OrderThe khao soi, northern Thai egg noodles in coconut curry with crispy noodles on top.
TipNo reservations; expect 45 minutes at 19:00. Lunch 11:30 and 14:30 the easier window; uptown sister at 2335 Yonge.