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DeliPlateau
Schwartz's carves hand-sliced smoked meat to order on Saint-Laurent in Montreal, the counter-and-queue benchmark for the city's defining sandwich since 1928.
TrySmoked meat sandwich
TipOrder it medium-fat off the takeout counter and eat it standing; the deli caraway rye is not optional.
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BakeryMile End
St-Viateur turns out Montreal's honey-boiled, wood-fired bagels around the clock in Mile End, sold hot by the dozen from a flour-dusted Saint-Viateur counter.
TryWood-fired bagel
TipEat a sesame bagel while it is still warm; day-old ones are for freezing and toasting later.
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BakeryMile End
Fairmount Bagel has wood-fired Montreal's oldest bagels since 1919, a 24-hour Mile End window turning out sesame and poppy rings a block from its rival.
TryWood-fired bagel
TipBuy a hot dozen and settle the Fairmount-versus-St-Viateur argument for yourself on the walk home.
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Street foodPlateau
La Banquise is Montreal's 24-hour poutine temple on Rue Rachel, ladling gravy and squeaky curds over fries in more than thirty over-the-top combinations.
TryPoutine
TipThe classic proves the kitchen; add smoked meat or guacamole once you have tried it straight first.
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PortuguesePlateau
Ma Poule Mouillee grills charcoal Portuguese chicken to order on Rue Rachel in Montreal, its piri-piri birds and chicken poutine drawing a permanent line.
TryPortuguese charcoal chicken
TipGet a half chicken with hot piri-piri to go; the tiny room has almost nowhere to sit.
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PortuguesePlateau
Romados is the Plateau rotisserie and bakery in Montreal whose charcoal chicken and custard tarts pull a lunchtime line out the door onto Rue Rachel.
TryPortuguese charcoal chicken
TipOrder the chicken and a couple of pasteis de nata; cash keeps the fast-moving queue moving faster.
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Middle EasternDowntown
Boustan has fed downtown Montreal since 1986, a late-night Rue Crescent counter with garlic-heavy shawarma and the fried-potato Aladin pita past midnight.
TryShawarma and pita
TipAsk for extra toum garlic sauce and pickled turnip; it stays open long past the bars for a good reason.
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VeganMile End
La Panthere Verte fries crisp falafel and stuffs zesty vegan pitas in Mile End and across Montreal, a green-minded counter for a fast, meat-free lunch.
TryFalafel pita
TipThe falafel pita with green sauce is the order; it is fully vegan even when it does not taste it.
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ChineseDowntown
Nouilles de Lan Zhou stretches its noodles by hand at the window in Montreal's Chinatown, dropping them into cumin-spiced Lanzhou-style beef broth to order.
TryHand-pulled noodles
TipWatch the dough being pulled at the counter and order the beef soup; specify thin or wide noodles.
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ChineseDowntown
Qing Hua folds its soup dumplings by hand in Montreal's Chinatown, sending out steamer baskets of pork-and-crab xiao long bao that burst with hot broth.
TrySoup dumplings
TipNibble a corner first to let the steam out; a dozen pork and crab is plenty for one hungry person.
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DeliMile End
Wilensky's has griddled its fried bologna-and-salami Special at a nine-stool Mile End counter since 1932, an unchanging Montreal snack served with mustard.
TryFried bologna special
TipIt comes with mustard and never cut; do not ask them to change it, that is the whole ritual.
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MexicanSaint Henri
Tacos Frida carves al pastor off the trompo in Saint-Henri, Montreal, onto small house-made corn tortillas for some of the city's most authentic street tacos.
TryAl pastor tacos
TipOrder three tacos and hit the salsa bar; the al pastor and pineapple pairing is the standout.