Seafood€€sainte-catherine
Noordzee Mer du Nord in Brussels' Sainte-Catherine is the standing-only seafood counter. Fish soup, oysters and grilled langoustines run to the steel bar all day, no tables anywhere.
Signature: Shrimp croquettes, Fish soup
Order: A bowl of fish soup, croquettes aux crevettes, and a glass of muscadet from the wine fridge.
Tip: No tables. Order at the counter, listen for your name, then carry the plate to a high-top across the street.
Belgian friterie-bistro€€anderlecht
Friture Rene in Brussels' Anderlecht has run since 1932 on Place de la Resistance. Pre-war fritkot-bistro hybrid: hand-cut beef-fat fries, steak from the grill, white-shirt waiters.
Signature: Hand-cut frites, Steak frites
Order: Steak frites or moules-frites, then anything from the long beer list.
Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Lunch service runs to 14:30; the dining room books out on weekends.
Italian-Belgian€€€ixelles
Racines in Brussels' Ixelles is the Italian-Belgian dining room on Chaussee d'Ixelles. Francesco Cury and Ugo Federico cook a tight modern menu with natural wine pairings, Bib Gourmand listed.
Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Italian-Belgian tasting menu
Order: Whichever pasta is on the chalkboard, with a glass of the house orange wine.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The bar seats face the open kitchen; lunch is the budget pick.
Modern French€€€dansaert
Henri in Brussels' Dansaert is the neo-bistro on Rue de Flandre. Tight chalkboard menu, focused natural-wine list, beef tartare and cheese souffle as the through-line.
Signature: Beef tartare, Cheese souffle
Order: Beef tartare prepared at the table, with the cheese souffle for two.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch set is the value pick; book ahead for evenings.
Ethiopian€€dansaert
Toukoul in Brussels is the city's canonical Ethiopian restaurant. The kitchen serves spongy injera with stews from the central pot, on Rue de Laeken near the Dansaert quarter.
Signature: Doro wat, Vegetarian beyaynetu platter
Order: A vegetarian beyaynetu for the table, plus doro wat, all rolled into the injera with no cutlery.
Tip: Open daily for dinner. Vegetarian and vegan platters are the value; tej (honey wine) is the drink.
Fish and chips€€saint-gery
Bia Mara in Brussels' Saint-Gery is the British-style fish and chips counter near the Bourse. Sustainable cod, hand-cut chips, condiment bar runs Belgian.
Signature: Beer-battered cod, Hand-cut chips
Order: Beer-battered cod with hand-cut chips, plus the curry-leaf mushy peas.
Tip: Open seven days lunch and dinner. Quick service; the bench tables fill at peak lunch.