Cold Maine lobster meat (claws, knuckles and tails picked the morning of) tossed with mayo, salt and lemon, piled onto a buttered and griddled top-split New England roll. Soft-shell season runs late May to September.

The lobster roll is widely credited to Perry's Restaurant in Milford, Connecticut, in the 1920s, when chef Harry Perry put hot buttered lobster meat onto a long bun for a travelling salesman. The Maine-style cold-mayo version evolved separately along the Maine coast through the 1930s and 1940s at shore-side lobster shacks. The top-split bun, baked by J J Nissen Baking Company starting in the 1940s, became the structural canon: flat sides griddle in butter like a panini. Eventide Oyster Co's brown-butter lobster roll on a steamed Bao bun (2012, from Mike Wiley and Andrew Taylor) reset the modern interpretation. Today both styles run at Portland lobster pounds and tasting menus alike.

Where to eat Maine lobster roll in Portland

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Make it at home

Serves 445 minEasy

Ingredients

  • 4 New England top-split hot dog buns
  • 450g cooked Maine lobster meat, picked from claws, knuckles, tails
  • 75g good mayonnaise (Hellmann's or Duke's)
  • 1 stalk celery, very fine dice
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • Pinch of celery salt
  • Pinch of cayenne
  • 2 tablespoons salted butter, soft
  • Kosher salt, black pepper
  • Chopped chives to finish

Method

  1. Cut the cooked lobster meat into rough 2cm pieces. Drain well in a colander for 10 minutes; excess water dilutes the mayo.
  2. Fold the lobster, mayo, celery, lemon juice, celery salt and a pinch of cayenne in a bowl. Taste and salt. Refrigerate 15 minutes.
  3. Heat a heavy skillet on medium. Butter both flat sides of each bun.
  4. Griddle the buns 2 minutes per side until golden and crisp.
  5. Open each bun, divide the lobster mix among them. Scatter chives. Serve immediately.

Editor tip. Use cold lobster, never warm; warm lobster wilts the buttery bun. Picking the meat the morning of is the canonical Maine routine.

Common allergens: Shellfish, Gluten, Egg.