Israeli grill$$$kensington
Laser Wolf in Philadelphia is Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook's Israeli skewer-grill at Howard and Master in Olde Kensington, the casual sibling to Zahav.
Signature: Beef shipudim, Lamb merguez
Order: The mixed grill plate with beef shipudim and lamb merguez; the salatim spread to start.
Tip: Walk in at the bar before 18:00 on a weeknight. Reservations stretch out 2 weeks on the Resy calendar.
Lebanese$$$fishtown
Suraya in Philadelphia is the Fishtown Lebanese market, garden and restaurant on Frankford Avenue from Greg Root, Nicholas Kennedy and chef Roland Kassis, opened 2017.
Signature: Whole roasted fish, Lamb shawarma
Order: Whole roasted fish for the table, lamb shawarma platter, the labneh with shrak bread.
Tip: Brunch on the back garden patio in summer is the room's best seat. Saturday 10am books out the fastest.
Modern American$$$old-city
Fork in Philadelphia is Ellen Yin's 1997 Old City flagship on Market Street, a James Beard Outstanding Restaurateur 2022 anchor of the Philadelphia dining renaissance.
Signature: Hand-cut pasta, Roast duck
Order: Whichever hand-cut pasta is on the seasonal menu; the roast duck if it appears.
Tip: The bar runs a separate menu and a half-price oyster happy hour weekday afternoons. Walk in for it.
French brasserie$$$center-city
Parc in Philadelphia is Stephen Starr's Rittenhouse Square French brasserie on 18th Street, a Parisian-cafe room that runs croissants by 08:00 and onion soup past 22:00.
Signature: Steak frites, Croque madame
Order: Steak frites with bearnaise; the croque madame at brunch; a half-bottle of Sancerre.
Tip: The outdoor sidewalk seats on 18th Street face Rittenhouse Square. Book them specifically in summer.
Sichuan Chinese$$old-city
Han Dynasty in Philadelphia is Han Chiang's Sichuan room on Chestnut in Old City, the kitchen that ranked the city's spice scale 1 to 10 and made the dan dan noodles famous.
Signature: Dan dan noodles, Dry pot
Order: Dan dan noodles, dry-pot rabbit at heat 7, three-pepper chicken, mapo tofu.
Tip: Order one dish below the heat level you think you can handle. The 10-spice scale is honest.
Pizza, Italian$$$fishtown
Pizzeria Beddia in Philadelphia is Joe Beddia's Fishtown reincarnation of the Bon Appetit America's Best Pizza of 2015, with a hoagie room behind the dining room.
Signature: Margherita pizza, Hoagie
Order: The margherita with sungold cherry tomatoes; a salad of every herb in the kitchen.
Tip: The hoagie room books separately. Reserve it for groups of four to six who want lunch sandwiches.