Soul Food$Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; closed Sat-Sun
Bully's is Jackson's James Beard-winning soul food institution, with steam-table oxtails, neckbones, catfish, and homemade cobblers from a morning start.
Order: Oxtails with greens, mac and cheese, and a slice of sweet potato cobbler
Tip: The steam table closes when the food runs out, usually by 15:00; arrive at opening for the full selection.
Soul Food$Tue-Sat 08:00-21:00; closed Sun-Mon
Big Apple Inn on Farish Street has served pig ear sandwiches and Delta hot tamales in a civil-rights landmark since 1939, for under $3 each.
Order: Pig ear sandwich and a smoke, under $6 total
Tip: The tamales here connect directly to the Delta tradition; order a dozen to go.
American Diner$Mon-Thu 07:00-16:00; Fri 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-14:00
Brent's Drugs is a 1946 Fondren pharmacy-turned-diner, serving classic lunch plates and counter-stool meals in a perfectly preserved American setting.
Order: Brent's Burger with onion rings, or a classic milkshake from the soda fountain
Tip: The Apothecary speakeasy bar in the back opens at 17:00 Monday through Saturday; no sign on the door.
BBQ$$Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun
The Pig and Pint in Fondren pairs eclectic BBQ - brisket, ribs, and fried green tomato tacos - with Mississippi's largest craft beer selections.
Order: Brisket plate with fried green tomato tacos and a rotating Mississippi craft beer
Tip: The rotating craft beer selection is genuinely excellent; ask the bartender what's new on tap.
Soul food$$Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 10:30-15:00
Hal and Mal's serves red beans and rice, po'boys, and Southern comfort food in a converted cotton warehouse with live music almost every night.
Order: Red beans and rice with andouille sausage, or a po'boy with comeback sauce
Tip: Check the entertainment calendar before visiting; Hal's is the home of Hal's St Paddy's Parade every March.
BBQ$$Tue-Sat 11:00-22:00; closed Sun-Mon
Boondocks BBQ is a neighbourhood smokehouse near Belhaven, known for smoked brisket, pulled pork, specialty burgers, and long lunch queues mid-week.
Order: Smoked brisket sandwich with house sauce, or the smoked wings
Tip: This is the kind of neighbourhood BBQ that doesn't get tourist coverage; locals eat here for a reason.