Pork shoulder smoke-roasted underground in a stone-lined imu, wrapped in ti and banana leaves. Pulled apart in long sweet strands; smoky, salty, the canonical Hawaiian luau centerpiece.

Kalua means 'to bake in an underground oven' in Hawaiian. The traditional imu method dates to pre-contact Polynesia: dig a pit, line with kiawe wood embers and lava stones, wrap a whole hog in ti and banana leaves, cover with damp burlap and earth, leave 8 to 12 hours. The dish was the centerpiece of luaus before and after Western contact. The Toguchi family's Highway Inn has served kalua pork plates since the 1947 Waipahu opening, now with a 2013 Kakaako outpost; Helena's Hawaiian Food on North School Street has cooked the imu since 1946.

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