Italian$$$uptownMon-Sat 5:30pm-close, Fri lunch 11:30am-2pm
A Michelin-listed Highland Park Italian with a wood-burning oven producing some of the city's best pizza and a pasta programme that keeps the room full every night of the week.
Order: Wood-burning oven white clam pizza; ravioli of Maine lobster.
Tip: Friday lunch is the sleeper: the room quieter than dinner, clam pizza the same, fewer people competing for a table.
Tex-Mex$$uptownMon-Sat 11am-9:30pm, Sun 11am-9pm
Operating since 1981, Mia's serves the brisket tacos that became a Dallas archetype. The original family recipes and the loyal crowd of regulars make this an institution on Lemmon Avenue.
Order: Brisket tacos, the dish that earned Mia's citywide loyalty. Cheese enchiladas with chili con carne.
Tip: The brisket taco was created by founder Butch Enriquez. The original recipe still runs the kitchen.
Tex-Mex$uptownMon-Thu 11am-9pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-9pm
Founded 1918 by Mike Martinez, El Fenix is the oldest Tex-Mex chain in the US, credited with formalising the enchilada-chili-gravy combination plate Dallas loves.
Order: Cheese enchiladas with chili gravy. The combination plate that opened in 1918.
Tip: The McKinney Ave location is the flagship. The weekday lunch combo runs under $12 and changes daily.
Texas BBQ$$bishop-artsSun-Thu 11am-9pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm
The Dallas outpost of the Lockhart BBQ tradition, run by descendants of the original Kreuz Market bloodline. The no-sauce ethos and post-oak smoke produce shoulder clod unavailable at most other Dallas BBQ operations.
Order: Shoulder clod cooked 18-20 hours over post-oak. Brisket with no sauce on butcher paper.
Tip: The shoulder clod is a Central Texas rarity worth ordering over brisket on your first visit if you have not had it before.
Mexican taqueria$$deep-ellumTue-Sun 5pm-10pm, Mon closed
Street tacos at the counter and, through a separate entrance, Purepecha: a prix-fixe tasting menu built on ancient Mexican techniques and corn imported weekly from Oaxaca. The Purepecha room is among the city's most ambitious tasting-menu formats.
Order: Al pastor tacos at the counter; if you can get into Purepecha, the eight-course tasting menu at $150.
Tip: Purepecha runs Thursday-Saturday by reservation only; the counter tacos are available all week without booking.
Texas BBQ$$design-districtWed-Sun 11am-3pm or sold out
A Design District lunch institution that closes when the meat runs out. The smoked pork chop has built a cult following since the restaurant opened, standing apart from a brisket-dominated market.
Order: Smoked pork chop, a cut most Dallas BBQ joints skip. Beef brisket by the half-pound.
Tip: Lunch-only, closes by 3pm or earlier. The pork chop sells out before noon on Saturdays.