Kedgeree
Photo: User:Justinc · CC BY-SA 2.0

Smoked haddock flaked through curried basmati rice with hard-boiled eggs, parsley and butter. Victorian London's Anglo-Indian breakfast import: rich, mildly spiced, served at hotel breakfast buffets and weekend brunches.

Kedgeree descends from khichdi, the South Asian one-pot rice and lentil dish, which arrived in 17th-century English households through East India Company traders. The fish addition is credited to Eliza Acton's 1845 recipe and likely emerged when Scottish smoked haddock (finnan haddie) became fashionable in southern England in the early 1800s. By the late Victorian era, kedgeree was the canonical breakfast in country-house and London hotel breakfast buffets, served alongside kippers and devilled kidneys. The Wolseley still offers it daily; St John keeps the dish in the modernist British canon. Smoked haddock is non-negotiable; the dish without it becomes plain spiced rice.

2 editor picks for Kedgeree in London, ranked by editorial score. All London signature dishes · Kedgeree across every city.

Riding House Cafe ★ 4.3

££BrunchFitzrovia

Adam White's Riding House Cafe on Great Titchfield Street in Fitzrovia London, opened 2011, runs an all-day Modern British brunch and small-plates menu.

OrderSweetcorn fritters with chipotle yoghurt and bacon

TipCounter seats walk in any time. Tables book a week ahead through Resy. Closed Mondays.

The Wolseley ★ 4.1

£££BrasserieMayfair

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003 in a former 1921 Wolseley showroom, runs from breakfast.

OrderEggs Benedict and a flat white at breakfast, or the Wiener schnitzel and a glass of riesling at dinner.

TipBreakfast from 07:00 is the un-touristed slot. Pre-theatre dinner from 18:00 books a fortnight ahead.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

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