Smoked haddock flaked through curried basmati rice with hard-boiled eggs, parsley and butter. Victorian London's Anglo-Indian breakfast import: rich, mildly spiced, served at hotel breakfast buffets and weekend brunches.

Kedgeree descends from khichdi, the South Asian one-pot rice and lentil dish, which arrived in 17th-century English households through East India Company traders. The fish addition is credited to Eliza Acton's 1845 recipe and likely emerged when Scottish smoked haddock (finnan haddie) became fashionable in southern England in the early 1800s. By the late Victorian era, kedgeree was the canonical breakfast in country-house and London hotel breakfast buffets, served alongside kippers and devilled kidneys. The Wolseley still offers it daily; St John keeps the dish in the modernist British canon. Smoked haddock is non-negotiable; the dish without it becomes plain spiced rice.

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