Zurich's honey-spiced biscuit: a paper-thin flat cookie embossed with scenes of city life, baked golden brown at high heat until crisp, traditionally given as Advent gifts.

Tirggel are a Zurich speciality dating back to at least the 14th century, originally baked from a stiff dough of flour and honey pressed into elaborately carved wooden moulds depicting saints, animals and city landmarks. By the 16th century the moulds had become genuine art objects, kept by professional Tirggelbecker (Tirggel bakers) for generations, and the biscuit became the customary Christmas-season Zurich gift. The contemporary versions sold by Honold and Cafe Spruengli use the same recipe (flour, honey, spices, no fat, no leavening) and the same moulds, often medieval-era originals.

Where to eat Tirggel in Zurich

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Make it at home

Serves 3024 hr 45 minIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 250g good Swiss or wildflower honey
  • 300g plain flour
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp ground cloves
  • 1/2 tsp ground anise seed
  • 1/4 tsp ground cardamom
  • 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • Pinch of fine salt
  • Flour for rolling and a Tirggel mould (or any deeply carved wooden cookie stamp or a Springerle mould; can substitute with a textured rolling pin or a clean stamp)

Method

  1. Warm the honey in a small saucepan over low heat to about 60 degrees Celsius; it should be runny and warm but not hot. Off heat, whisk in the lemon zest and spices.
  2. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl; pour in the warm honey and mix with a wooden spoon, then knead for 8 minutes by hand or 5 minutes in a stand mixer until you have a smooth, very stiff dough; it should feel like a firm pasta dough.
  3. Wrap in cling film and rest at room temperature for at least 24 hours (and up to 72 hours); the dough firms and matures, which is essential for the imprint to hold.
  4. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 230 degrees Celsius (top heat or grill if possible).
  5. Roll the dough out on a floured bench to 2 to 3mm thickness (paper-thin).
  6. Dust the Tirggel mould (or stamp) with flour, press firmly into the dough so the pattern is sharp, then peel back the mould and cut around the imprint with a knife or biscuit cutter.
  7. Lay each tirggel on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving a small gap between (they barely spread).
  8. Bake for 4 to 6 minutes only; the top must turn deep golden but the imprint must stay clear. Watch them closely; over-baking turns them black, under-baking gives a chewy raw centre.
  9. Cool completely on a wire rack. The biscuit hardens as it cools and should snap cleanly. Store in an airtight tin for up to 2 months.

Editor tip. The dough rest is non-negotiable; without 24+ hours, the imprint blurs and the biscuit will not hold. A Springerle mould is the closest commercially available substitute for a Tirggel mould; both are sold by Swiss and German cookware suppliers.

Common allergens: Gluten.