Tortilla De Patatas appears as a signature dish in 2 Spain cities. See each city's local variant and where to eat it.

Tortilla de patatas · Madrid

Tortilla de patatas is Spain's defining egg dish and Madrid's daily breakfast pincho: a thick, juicy potato-and-egg cake (with or without onion), sliced from the pan and eaten at the counter with a cana.

Tortilla de patatas may have originated in Navarra in 1817 with general Tomas de Zumalacarregui during the Carlist Wars, but Madrid adopted it as its working-day breakfast and tapa by the early 20th century. The two-camp debate (con cebolla vs sin cebolla, with or without onion) runs the country. The Madrid version is thick, very juicy in the centre (poco hecha), and the canonical Madrid eg slice is Casa Dani's tortilla at Mercado de la Paz, where the cake is cooked to order daily and a pincho still costs 2 euros. Sacha Hormaechea introduced the tortilla vaga (lazy tortilla, undercooked and topped with caviar) at his Chamartin bistro; it became a Madrid modernist signature.

Where to eat in Madrid:

Tortilla de patatas · San Sebastián

San Sebastián's tortilla de patatas is the just-set Spanish potato omelette: slow-confit potatoes and onions bound in barely-cooked egg, sliced like a torte and served as a pintxo at every Parte Vieja bar.

The tortilla de patatas is Spain's most-served dish, but the Basque pintxo-bar tradition gave it the just-set (poco hecho) form that defines the San Sebastián version: the egg should run when cut. Antonio Bar on Calle de Bergara (the current owners took over in 1995) is widely cited (San Sebastián tourism, Time Out, Eater) as the city's reference tortilla, taken off the heat with the centre still liquid. Bar Bergara on the same street and La Cuchara de San Telmo in the Parte Vieja keep their own signature versions on the bar all day. The pintxo cut (a thin wedge served at the counter) is the form to order.

Where to eat in San Sebastián: