Basque pintxos€€abando
La Vina del Ensanche on Diputacion in Bilbao since 1927 runs three rooms under the third family generation, Joselito Iberian ham the house pintxo.
Signature: Jamon Iberico Joselito, Croquetas de jamon, Bonito
Order: The Joselito ham on crystal bread at the counter; the croquetas de jamon as a second.
Tip: The taller (workshop room) is a more intimate sit-down service; book for the tasting menu. The deli sells the same hams to take away.
Modern Basque€€abando
Singular on Calle Lersundi in Bilbao runs six craft beer taps with 50 weekly bottles and 50 wines, plus Iberian ham rolls as the house pintxo.
Signature: Iberian ham roll, Salmon roll, Craft beer flights
Order: The Iberian ham roll on bread dipped in olive oil and tomato; the rotating craft beer flight.
Tip: Beer-pairing tastings on weeknights; the kitchen runs continuously from 12:00 to 23:00 weekends.
Modern Basque€€€€indautxu
Mina has held one Michelin star since 2013 for Alvaro Garrido's modern-Basque tasting menu, now a 25-cover Indautxu room on Calle Ercilla.
Signature: Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil, Cigala, Tasting menu
Order: The full tasting menu; the kokotxas de merluza al pil pil are the canonical Garrido dish.
Tip: Two services, lunch and dinner, menu only. Book three weeks ahead; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Basque seafood€€€€indautxu
Zarate in Bilbao's Indautxu holds one Michelin star for Sergio Ortiz de Zarate's whole-baked Cantabrian fish, sea bass and turbot served plainly.
Signature: Whole baked turbot, Sea bass, Tasting menu
Order: The whole baked turbot or sea bass; the short tasting menu if you want the kitchen leading.
Tip: Book two weeks ahead for dinner; lunch midweek is the calmer service. Closed Sunday night and Monday.
Modern Basque€€€€amorebieta
Boroa in a 15th-century Bizkaian farmhouse 20 minutes from Bilbao holds one Michelin star for Javier Gartzia's tradition-and-avant-garde Basque cooking.
Signature: Tasting menu, Cantabrian fish, Bizkaian classics
Order: The full tasting menu; ask for the bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Twenty minutes by car from central Bilbao; closed Sunday night and Monday. Book the farmhouse upstairs room for the quietest seating.
Modern Basque€€€€casco-viejo
Ola Martin Berasategui in the Tayko hotel by the Nervion in Bilbao holds one Michelin star for Raul Cabrera's reading of the Berasategui canon.
Signature: Martin Berasategui tasting menu, La Bodega de Ola, Seasonal grill
Order: The Martin Berasategui tasting menu; La Bodega de Ola for the wine-pairing service.
Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays plus Sunday dinner; book two weeks out.