Esqueixada is a Catalan summer salad: salt-cod, hand-shredded raw, with tomato, sweet onion, black olives, dressed with olive oil and a splash of red wine vinegar.
Esqueixada (Catalan for 'torn') belongs to the wider Mediterranean cooking-without-fire summer tradition: the salt-cod is desalted in cold water for 24 hours, then shredded by hand rather than knifed. The dish belongs to the inland Catalan kitchens where salt-preserved bacallà was the working-class fish; Barcelona refined it into a sit-down summer starter by the 1900s. The canonical version layers shredded cod over halved cherry tomatoes, ribbons of sweet white onion, oil-cured black olives, and a few drops of olive oil and Pedro Ximenez vinegar. Casa Amalia and Can Vilaro both run the textbook plate; modern Catalan rooms like Mont Bar plate it with heirloom tomatoes.
Casa Amalia in Barcelona's Eixample is a 1950s neighbourhood dining room where bacallà a la llauna and esqueixada sit on the carte every weekday lunch.
OrderThe esqueixada starter and the bacallà a la llauna oven dish.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The 19 euro menu del dia at lunch is the value pick.
Can Vilaro in Barcelona's Sant Antoni has cooked Catalan working-class plates since 1948: cap i pota, botifarra amb mongetes, daily off-the-bone fish stew.
OrderThe botifarra amb mongetes and a glass of house red.
TipClosed Sundays. Cash easier than card. Lunch menu del dia is 13 euros.
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