Pierogi ruskie are the canonical potato-and-farmer's-cheese pierogi, served boiled with butter-fried onions and a dollop of sour cream. Despite the name, the filling is Polish through and through.
The pierogi ruskie filling, despite the name (Ruthenian or Ukrainian), is the most-cooked pierogi filling in Polish home kitchens. The combination of potato, farmer's cheese (twaróg) and fried onion entered Polish cooking from western Ukraine (Galicia) in the 19th century, after the 1772 partition placed both regions under Habsburg control. The pierogi were already a Polish form; the ruskie filling adapted Ukrainian varenyky filling to it. By the 1920s pierogi ruskie were standard at every Polish bar mleczny. Pierogarnia Krakowiacy on Szewska and Przystanek Pierogarnia each serve a half-and-half ruskie option boiled or pan-fried.
Pierogarnia Krakowiacy on Szewska in Kraków's Old Town runs a 30-strong pierogi carte: ruskie, meat, duck, spinach, sweet cherry. Located in Stare Miasto.
OrderA mixed plate of pierogi ruskie and pierogi with duck; a glass of kompot to wash it down.
TipPierogi come boiled or pan-fried. Pan-fried takes 5 extra minutes; ask for half-and-half.
Przystanek Pierogarnia in Kraków's Old Town is the no-nonsense pierogi counter locals queue at: 20 fillings, plates from 18 zl, open from 11:00 to late.
OrderPierogi z mięsem (minced meat) and the cabbage-and-mushroom version. Sour cream on the side.
TipCash and card. Counter seats only; ten stools and a window-bar.
Polakowski in Kraków's Kazimierz is the all-day Polish canteen for the Old Synagogue end: pierogi, bigos, schabowy, gołąbki, served counter-style from 10:00.
OrderA mixed pierogi plate and a bowl of bigos; the rye bread is included.
TipAll-day Polish canteen on Miodowa in Kazimierz; counter service, no bookings.
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