The cobbled hill behind the City Hall, with Cajdzinica Dzirlo's tea house and Inat Kuca's institution looking back over the Miljacka.
Inat Kuca in Sarajevo's Kovaci is the Spite House, an Ottoman house moved across the Miljacka in 1895 and now a Bosnian restaurant for sahan and lonac.
Signature: Sarajevski sahan, Bosanski lonac, Cevapi, Burek
Order: Sarajevski sahan with bosanski lonac and a glass of Blatina from Mostar.
Tip: Reserve for dinner on the riverside terrace, ask for sarajevski sahan to taste five Bosnian dishes in one tray, and bring cash for the bill.
Inat Kuca in Kovaci is the Sarajevo Spite House, an Ottoman house moved across the Miljacka in 1895 and now a Bosnian restaurant for sahan and lonac.
Tip: Reserve a riverside terrace table for dinner; ask for sarajevski sahan to taste five Bosnian dishes in one tray.
Inat Kuca in Kovaci is the Sarajevo Spite House, an Ottoman house moved across the Miljacka in 1895 and now a Bosnian restaurant for sahan and lonac.
Signature: Sarajevski sahan, Bosanski lonac, Cevapi
Order: Sarajevski sahan with bosanski lonac.
Tip: Reserve for dinner on the riverside terrace; cash is the practical move.
Cajdzinica Dzirlo on cobbled Kovaci above Bascarsija pours Bosnian coffee, salep and 53 teas from a tiny Sarajevo Ottoman-era tea house above town.
Signature drink: Bosnian coffee and 53 teas
Tip: Order a Bosnian coffee with rahat lokum and sit on the stone steps outside; cash only.
Cajdzinica Dzirlo on Kovaci pours Bosnian coffee in the dzezva, the canonical Sarajevo specialty roastery technique tied to the Ottoman coffeehouse tradition.
Tip: The Bosnian coffee comes with rahat lokum on the saucer; cash only.
Sources from: Bosnia regional roast, Ethiopia
How they serve: Bosnian dzezva, Pour-over
Cajdzinica Dzirlo on Kovaci is the Sarajevo 3-KM Bosnian-coffee sit above Bascarsija, with dzezva-brewed coffee, salep and 53 teas for the slow sit.
Try: Bosnian coffee with rahat lokum
Tip: Cash only; sit on the stone steps in summer and watch Bascarsija from above.