Kirkor has long sold bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion, sweet myzithra or plain custard inside hot phyllo, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar.
OrderBougatsa with sweet myzithra, honey and cinnamon
DrinkGreek coffee
TipOrder at the counter, take a table on the square, and expect the bougatsa to arrive scalding hot.
Phyllosophies has worked Smyrna phyllo on Lions Square in Heraklion since 1922, filling its bougatsa with fresh cream or sweet myzithra to order.
OrderBougatsa with myzithra, honey and walnuts
DrinkGreek coffee
TipThe recipe traces to a bougatsa master from Smyrna, and the phyllo is still opened by hand every morning.
Melba holds a corner of Lions Square in Heraklion, running waffles, crepes, freddo coffee and ice cream for families until well past midnight each night.
OrderWaffles or crepes, eaten out on Lions Square
DrinkFreddo espresso
TipRight on Plateia Venizelou, so it fills with families in the early evening and stays open past midnight.
Phyllosophies is the bougatsa house on Lions Square in Heraklion, opening its phyllo by hand every morning since 1922 and across three generations.
OrderBougatsa with myzithra, honey and walnuts
TipAlso bakes chortopites, tyropites, baklava and loukoumades, all from the same hand-opened phyllo.
Kirkor has baked bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion for generations, and is still the first place locals name when you ask them about breakfast.
OrderBougatsa with custard, cinnamon and icing sugar
TipA bougatsa counter rather than a cafe, so expect to eat standing or take it away.
Phyllosophies is the Heraklion bougatsa counter on Lions Square, hand-opened phyllo filled with cream or sweet myzithra and cut with scissors.
OrderBougatsa with sweet myzithra and honey
TipEat it standing on Lions Square while it is still too hot, which is how everyone in Heraklion does it.
Kirkor has long sold bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion, and it is still the fastest breakfast in the whole city if you eat it standing up.
OrderBougatsa with custard, cinnamon and icing sugar
TipThe queue moves fast, because there are really only two things on the menu.
Kirkor sells bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion for just a few euros, which makes its counter the cheapest good breakfast in the entire city.
OrderBougatsa with custard, cinnamon and icing sugar
TipA bougatsa and a Greek coffee is breakfast for under five euros, which is the cheapest sit-down in the old town.
Phyllosophies keeps prices low on Lions Square in Heraklion, where a bougatsa or a hand-opened greens pie costs less than a coffee elsewhere.
OrderBougatsa with sweet myzithra, honey and walnuts
TipThe savoury chortopites and tyropites cost about the same as the sweet bougatsa and travel better in a bag.
Day trip · 5 hours
Discover the vineyards and ancient architecture of Knossos, on a private full-day Crete journey, with a light lunch and wine.
3 hours
Watch the sun come up over the Lasithi Plateau from a hot air balloon, then celebrate back on the ground with sparkling wine and a real Greek breakfast. One of the bes...
Day trip · 9 hours
Experience the cultural fusion of Rethimno's historic charm and Margarites' artisanal mastery. Delight in a sensory journey of oil and honey tasting, a blend of tradition,
