Eat in Toolo, Helsinki

Elite ★ 4.1

Elite in Töölö has been the artists' restaurant since 1932, its walls hung with paintings, serving Finnish classics like vorschmack and fried Baltic herring.

OrderVorschmack, the minced-meat hash, or the platter of fried Baltic herring with mash.

TipThe terrace and the artist-portrait walls are the draw as much as the food. A living room for Helsinki's cultural set since 1932.

Cafe Regatta ★ 4.3

Cafe Regatta is a tiny red lakeside cottage near Sibelius Park serving korvapuusti and coffee; in summer the tables spill onto the shoreline rocks.

DrinkCinnamon bun and coffee by the sea

TipBring the coffee outside and sit on the waterfront rocks. Cash-friendly, cramped indoors, and busiest on sunny afternoons.

Lykke ★ 4.1

Lykke in Etu-Töölö is an all-day cafe and bistro near the railway park, pouring specialty coffee in the morning and turning to wine and small plates by night.

DrinkAll-day coffee and brunch

TipWorks as a laptop morning spot and a wine-and-snacks evening room. Near the railway park on the Töölö side.

Layers Bakery ★ 4.8

Layers is a tiny Töölö bakery many rate for the best croissants in Finland, run by Finnish-Spanish baker Daniel Tobal Autiokari from a small counter.

Worth the queueButter croissant

TipOpen limited days and it sells out, so go early. The pain au chocolat is as good as the namesake croissant.

Konditoria Hopia ★ 4.2

Konditoria Hopia in Töölö is an old-time patisserie baking Karelian pies and cinnamon buns to a recipe brought from Sortavala nearly 70 years ago.

Worth the queueKarelian pie (karjalanpiirakka)

TipCome for the karjalanpiirakka rye-and-rice pies, baked daily to the original Karelian recipe. A Töölö neighbourhood fixture.

Levain Töölö ★ 4.0

The Töölö branch of Levain on Runeberginkatu runs the same sourdough-led programme as the original, with bread, pastries and an all-day menu.

Worth the queueSourdough loaf

TipQuieter than the Punavuori original and a short walk from the opera. Same sourdough and pastel de nata.

Lykke ★ 4.0

Lykke in Etu-Töölö shifts from morning coffee to an evening wine-and-snacks bar, with a glass-friendly European list served near the railway park.

PourWine by the glass with evening plates

WineEuropean bottles, glass-friendly list

FoodSmall plates and snacks

TipBy night it is a relaxed wine-and-snacks room rather than a cafe. Good before or after an event at the nearby opera.

Cafe Regatta ★ 4.5

Cafe Regatta (Cafe) in Helsinki: Take the coffee and a korvapuusti outside to the shoreline rocks. Busiest on sunny afternoons; the indoor space is minute.

Why locals goA tiny red cottage by the water near Sibelius Park, cramped and cash-friendly, where the cinnamon-bun ritual feels far older than the rest of the city.

TipTake the coffee and a korvapuusti outside to the shoreline rocks. Busiest on sunny afternoons; the indoor space is minute.

Lykke ★ 4.0

Lykke in Etu-Töölö pours specialty coffee with an all-day breakfast and brunch plates, a relaxed cafe near the railway park that drifts into wine by evening.

OrderSpecialty coffee with the all-day breakfast plates

TipGood for a slower weekday brunch away from the centre. Coffee is the strength, and the room turns into a wine bar by evening.

Jaskan Grilli ★ 4.4

Jaskan Grilli is an open-air burger kiosk near the National Museum open to 4:30am, the classic Helsinki end-of-night stop for a burger or sausage.

TryBurgers, sausages and meat pies

TipOpen-air and cash-friendly, near the Parliament. The Jaskan burger on toast is the order after a night out.