The old town east of the cathedral, where the Mercado dos Lavradores gives on to Rua de Santa Maria, painted doorways, grilled fish and poncha counters.
Gavião Novo grills fish off the Funchal coast on Rua de Santa Maria, the old town street where the day boat rather than the menu decides dinner.
OrderFish from the Funchal coast, grilled whole off the day boat.
TipBook ahead for dinner. The dining room is small and the pavement tables on Rua de Santa Maria go first.
Restaurante do Forte has cooked inside the São Tiago fortress in Funchal since 2001, with terrace tables above the bay and a Portuguese carte.
OrderFish from the Madeiran boats, cooked in the fortress kitchen.
TipAsk for a terrace table at sunset. The fortress walls block the wind that hits the promenade below.
Taberna Ruel works a Madeiran and Portuguese kitchen on Rua de Santa Maria, named for chef Ricardo Ruel and built on island produce and modern technique.
OrderA Madeiran plate from the daily list, with a bottle from the Portuguese cellar.
TipIt runs straight through from 11:00 to 23:00 every day, so it catches both the late lunch and the early dinner.
Lá ao Fundo sits at the fortress end of the Funchal old town, where chef-owner Jaime Cruz pulls Portuguese, African and Indian threads into one short menu.
OrderThe daily author dish, rewritten each morning around the market delivery.
TipLunch and dinner run as two separate services with the kitchen shut between them. Book the terrace.
Casa Portuguesa lines its Funchal old town rooms with hand-painted cobalt tiles and cooks a traditional Portuguese carte, with fado by prior reservation.
OrderA traditional Portuguese main, booked with the fado sitting if you want music.
TipFado nights need reserving in advance rather than asking for on the door.
Gavião Novo grills fish off the Funchal coast on Rua de Santa Maria, the old town street where the day boat rather than the menu decides dinner.
OrderFish from the Funchal coast, grilled whole off the day boat.
TipBook ahead for dinner. The dining room is small and the pavement tables on Rua de Santa Maria go first.
Taberna Ruel works a Madeiran and Portuguese kitchen on Rua de Santa Maria, named for chef Ricardo Ruel and built on island produce and modern technique.
OrderA Madeiran plate from the daily list, with a bottle from the Portuguese cellar.
TipIt runs straight through from 11:00 to 23:00 every day, so it catches both the late lunch and the early dinner.
Lá ao Fundo sits at the fortress end of the Funchal old town, where chef-owner Jaime Cruz pulls Portuguese, African and Indian threads into one short menu.
OrderThe daily author dish, rewritten each morning around the market delivery.
TipLunch and dinner run as two separate services with the kitchen shut between them. Book the terrace.
Casa Portuguesa lines its Funchal old town rooms with hand-painted cobalt tiles and cooks a traditional Portuguese carte, with fado by prior reservation.
OrderA traditional Portuguese main, booked with the fado sitting if you want music.
TipFado nights need reserving in advance rather than asking for on the door.
Barreirinha Bar Café sits above the old bathing complex in the Funchal Zona Velha, a seafront terrace running from morning coffee to weekend DJs.
DrinkPoncha on the seafront terrace
TipMorning coffee and late drinks happen in the same room. Weekends run to 02:00.
Barreirinha Bar Café sits above the old bathing complex in the Funchal Zona Velha, a seafront terrace running from morning coffee to weekend DJs.
DrinkPoncha
FoodFull kitchen
TipMorning coffee and late drinks happen in the same room. Weekends run to 02:00.
Mercado dos Lavradores opened in Funchal in 1940 to Edmundo Tavares's design, tiled front, fish hall downstairs and tropical fruit upstairs.
TipGo before 09:00 for the fish hall. Saturday shuts at 14:00 and Sunday is closed entirely.
Barreirinha Bar Café sits above the old bathing complex in the Funchal Zona Velha, a seafront terrace running from morning coffee to weekend DJs.
OrderCoffee and a plate on the sea terrace
TipMorning coffee and late drinks happen in the same room. Weekends run to 02:00.
Barreirinha Bar Café sits above the old bathing complex in the Funchal Zona Velha, a seafront terrace running from morning coffee to weekend DJs.
OrderA poncha on the terrace as the light goes off the water.
TipMorning coffee and late drinks happen in the same room. Weekends run to 02:00.
Barreirinha Bar Café sits above the old bathing complex in the Funchal Zona Velha, a seafront terrace running from morning coffee to weekend DJs.
TipMorning coffee and late drinks happen in the same room. Weekends run to 02:00.
Guided tour · 8 hours
Take in the landscapes of Madeira's vineyards on this full-day tour. Ride Fajã dos Padres cable car, visit a wine cellar, taste local wines and enjoy a typical Madeira...
4 hours
A snorkeling adventure is a truly exciting and memorable experience. With crystal clear waters and lush marine life, the island offers stunning scenery and unforgettab...
Guided tour · 4 hours
Sample some local Madeira fortified wine. Visit Funchal market with all its colors. Head to Monte for the toboggan ride. Visit Câmara de Lobos, the fishing village.
