Valvona and Crolla's caffe-bar on Elm Row in Edinburgh, opened in 1934 (the bistro since 1996), the back-of-deli dining room for Scotland's longest-running.
OrderThe carbonara made with house-cured pancetta and the Pugliese antipasto board.
TipThe deli at the front sells the same dry pasta and tinned tomatoes the kitchen uses; shop while you wait for your table.
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