Eat in Haidian, Beijing

Xiang Bin Xuan (Huayuan Road) ★ 4.2

Xiang Bin Xuan on Huayuan Road in Beijing cooks authentic Hunan food, known for its chopped-chilli fish head and Yongzhou-style fried duck, plus stinky tofu.

OrderThe chopped-chilli fish head, Yongzhou-style fried duck and the stinky tofu.

TipExpect a queue at mealtimes, so arrive early or reserve by phone; the Michelin Guide also lists stinky tofu and mugwort dumplings as snacks.

Qiantang Garden (Shuangyushu North Road) ★ 4.0

Qiantang Garden on Shuangyushu North Road in Beijing has cooked Ningbo seafood since the early 2000s, with fish tanks and shipments from the owner's hometown.

OrderOil-blanched river shrimp with vinegar and ginger, hairtail, and house-made waxberry juice.

TipPick the fish from the tank and ask how to cook it; the Michelin Guide singles out oil-blanched river shrimp and hairtail prepared several ways.

Hong Fan Qie (Yuyuantan South Road) ★ 4.1

Hong Fan Qie's Yuyuantan South Road flagship in Beijing cooks Hubei dishes from daily-shipped ingredients on a menu that follows the 24 solar terms.

OrderOrder the long-snout catfish with tomato and the sauteed young lotus seeds.

TipThe menu follows the 24 solar terms, so ask what is seasonal; Ctrip lists a waiting area, tables for ten or more and free parking.

La Roba ★ 4.0

La Roba on Zaojunmiao Road in Beijing is a Yunnan restaurant named for a Nuosu subgroup, with ethnic decor and a menu of classic Yunnan dishes.

OrderThe millefeuille pea flour pancake and the Dali-style fish braised in pickled papaya.

TipExpect a queue at peak periods; the Michelin Guide recommends the chewy millefeuille pea flour pancake and Dali fish braised in pickled papaya.

Ladychai (Ganjiakou) ★ 4.4

Ladychai on Ganjiakou North Street in Beijing is a family-run shop that follows c. 1920 recipes, selling braised beef by the catty with noodles in beef broth.

TryBraised beef by the catty with plain noodles in beef broth

TipQueue, serve yourself and share a table; order about half a catty of beef a head and say fatty or lean.

Jingchu Flavor Restaurant (Hubei Mansion) ★ 3.5

Jingchu Flavor Restaurant in Hubei Mansion on Zhongguancun South Street, Beijing, cooks Hubei dishes such as Wuchang fish and Wuhan three-delicacy doupi.

OrderWuchang fish, Wuhan three-delicacy doupi and dry-pot chicken.

Why locals goInside Hubei Mansion on Zhongguancun South Street, a provincial office building near National Library station, rather than on a restaurant street.

TipThe nearest station is National Library on Lines 4 and 9; lunch runs 11:00 to 14:00 and dinner 17:00 to 21:00, at about ¥112 a head.