€€€€ItalianStampaceMon-Sat dinner; lunch also served in winter
Josto in Cagliari is Pierluigi Fais's Via Sassari dining room, an open kitchen working bottarga, mullet and Sardinian meat into minimal modern plates.
OrderThe tasting menu, bottarga and mullet included.
TipThe tasting menu runs 70 euro; Sunday is the one day the room stays dark, and the kitchen works Monday to Saturday.
€€€€SeafoodMarinaMon 20:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 13:00-15:00, 20:00-23:00
Luigi Pomata cooks Carloforte tuna in Cagliari, three rooms and a port-facing terrace above Viale Regina Margherita, raw fish to open and red tuna to follow.
OrderRed tuna, raw then seared, the house speciality.
TipLunch service runs 13:00 to 15:00 Tuesday to Saturday and is the cheaper way in; tinned house tuna is sold to take home.
€€€€SeafoodVillanovaMon-Sat 13:00-14:30, 20:00-22:30
Da Marino al St. Remy is Cagliari's small brick-walled seafood room by San Salvatore da Horta, run front of house by Marino Cogoni with Silvana Sardu cooking.
OrderSeafood antipasti, then a pasta with the day's catch.
TipThe wine list leans hard on Sardinian growers; book, because the rooms hold only a few tables and Sunday is closed.
€€€€ItalianStampaceDaily 12:30-15:30, 19:30-23:00
Sa Domu Sarda on Via Sassari is the Cagliari address for cucina regionale di terra, the inland Sardinian side of the island rather than the harbour.
OrderWhatever the inland menu is running that day.
TipBook for dinner, the two plain rooms fill with locals; the kitchen runs straight through from 12:30 and again from 19:30, seven days a week.
€€€€ItalianVillanovaMon-Sun 13:00-15:00; Mon-Sat 20:00-23:00
La Locanda dei Buoni e Cattivi in Cagliari is a villa restaurant and guest house that trains young staff, cooking seasonal organic Sardinian plates.
OrderSunday's Sa Picchettada buffet lunch.
TipWeekday lunch runs a fixed-price menu alongside the carte; the garden and terrace are the reason to book ahead in spring.
€€€€SeafoodMarinaMon-Sat 13:00-15:00, 20:00-23:00
Stella Marina di Montecristo works the far end of Via Sardegna in Cagliari, sixty covers of maritime kit and fish bought fresh that morning.
OrderWhatever came off the boats that morning, cooked simply.
TipIt shuts for a variable stretch in August, and the sixty covers go fast in summer, so call the mobile number to hold a table.
€€€€JapaneseMarinaMon 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30; Wed-Thu 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30; Fri-Sat 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-15:00, 19:30-22:30
Osteria Kobuta cooks Japanese-Sardinian plates in Cagliari off Largo Carlo Felice, a seasonal menu built for sharing in a room of maybe ten tables.
OrderThe seasonal sharing menu, start to finish.
TipClosed Tuesday, and the kitchen writes a new menu each season; WhatsApp booking is the fastest way to get a table.
€€€€SeafoodMarinaDaily 12:30-15:30, 19:00-23:59
Sa Schironada on Via Baylle runs long hours for the Marina in Cagliari, Sardinian fish and roast plates and a crisp fritto misto from the Gulf.
OrderZuppa di cozze with pane carasau, then seadas.
TipOpen every day and late, which makes it the fallback when the smaller trattorias in the Marina have shut their kitchens.
€€€€ItalianMarinaMon 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00; Wed-Sun 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
€€€€SeafoodMarinaMon-Tue 12:00-15:00, 19:45-22:45; Thu-Sun 12:00-15:00, 19:45-22:45
Trattoria da Serafino works a corner of Via Lepanto in Cagliari, an air-conditioned room of local fish plates and a back room for long lunches.
OrderWhatever local fish is on the board that day.
TipClosed Wednesday; the private back room takes the business lunches, so the front fills with regulars.
€€€€ItalianMarinaDaily 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:59
Su Cumbidu on Via Napoli feeds the Marina fixed-price Sardinian menus under brick arches, culurgiones and seadas at prices Cagliari students accept.
OrderCulurgiones, potato and mint, in tomato sauce.
TipThe set menus are the value play at around €20 to 30; go early, because groups book out the arched back room.