What is in season in Marseille. and what to order when the market changes.
Spring
- Asparagus and artichoke: Green Provencal asparagus and violet artichokes arrive at the Marche des Capucins and Marche du Prado from March, often eaten raw with olive oil or in barigoule.
- Strawberries (Carpentras): Carpentras strawberries reach the city's markets from late March through May, the small Mara des Bois variety the prize for tarts and gariguette for eating straight.
- Lamb (Sisteron): Sisteron lamb from the Provencal foothills comes into season for Easter, roast leg with rosemary and garlic the canonical Marseille spring plate.
Summer
- Sardines: Sardines run heavy off the Vieux Port from June through August, grilled whole on the cabanon terraces at Les Goudes or filleted into escabeche.
- Tomatoes (Provencal): Provencal tomatoes arrive in July, the noire de Crimee and coeur de boeuf the best of the slicers, eaten with anchovies and olive oil through August.
- Figs (Solliès): Black Solliès figs come in from August into September, the AOC fruit eaten with goat cheese or in a tarte fine with a glass of cool rose.
Autumn
- Pumpkin and squash (Provencal): Provencal pumpkin and squash fill the Capucins stalls from October, the muscade de Provence the standout for soups and the candied confit at Christmas.
- Game (Camargue and Var): Wild boar from the Var and partridge from the Camargue start in October, daubes and braises the canonical bouchon dishes through November.
- Wild mushrooms (Provencal): Provencal cepes, girolles and trompettes arrive in September and October, often served sauteed with garlic and parsley as a simple side.
Winter
- Oursins (sea urchin): Oursin season runs September through April in the Calanques, the Catalans beach kiosks selling them by the dozen with a glass of dry white at lunch.
- 13 desserts of Noel: The 13 desserts of Provencal Christmas appear on tables from December 24, including pompe a l'huile, fresh dates, dried figs, almonds and the four mendiants.
- Truffle (Vaucluse): Vaucluse black truffles arrive at the city's specialty grocers from mid-December through February, the markets at Richerenches and Apt the Provencal trade routes.