JR Kyoto Isetan Depachika ★ 4.4
The depachika basement of JR Kyoto Isetan, two underground floors of bento, wagashi, sashimi and sweets at Kyoto Station; the city's pre-shinkansen pantry.
Kyoto's cinnamon-and-rice sweet, sold both baked-crisp and raw as soft nama-yatsuhashi filled with red-bean paste. The city's most-photographed souvenir.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Yatsuhashi takes its name from a 17th-century Kyoto composer of the koto, Yatsuhashi Kengyo. The original baked-crisp form dates to the 1680s in Higashiyama. The soft, cinnamon-dusted nama-yatsuhashi filled with sweet azuki paste is the 20th-century evolution, codified by Honke Nishio and Otabe in the 1960s. Today every souvenir tier of Kyoto Station Porta basement is stacked with yatsuhashi boxes in cinnamon, matcha, sakura and yuzu variants.
Common allergens: Wheat
Tip from the editors. Roll the dough as thin as you can without tearing; commercial Kyoto yatsuhashi has paper-thin walls so the bean paste leads the bite.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
The depachika basement of JR Kyoto Isetan, two underground floors of bento, wagashi, sashimi and sweets at Kyoto Station; the city's pre-shinkansen pantry.
Daimaru Kyoto's depachika basement on Shijo-dori, 70-plus counters of wagashi, bento, sashimi and sake. The downtown alternative to JR Kyoto Isetan.
The underground passage below Kyoto Station, 120 food and shop counters running from JR to Karasuma Subway. Ramen counters, ekibens and the chain quick lunch.
More cities are in research. Want yatsuhashi covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.