Xato is a Catalan winter salad from the Sitges coast: salt cod, anchovies, tuna and olives on lettuce, dressed with a thick romesco-style xato sauce made from peppers and almonds.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
Xato originated in the Sitges and Vilanova fishing villages southwest of Barcelona in the 17th century, when winter salt cod was the dock-worker staple and the local nyora peppers, almonds and hazelnuts made up a rust-coloured sauce called xato (or 'chato'). The sauce is a romesco cousin: nyora pepper pulp, toasted almonds and hazelnuts, garlic, bread, oil and vinegar, blitzed to a thick paste. The xatonada tradition is the post-Christmas weekend xato lunch served from January to March at Vilanova, Sitges, Vilafranca and El Vendrell. Barcelona's Casa Amalia and 7 Portes both run a version through winter.
Common allergens: Nuts, Fish
Tip from the editors. The xato sauce is the heart of the dish; do not skip the toasted nuts step. The bread soaks up the moisture and gives the sauce its thick texture.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Casa Amalia in Barcelona's Eixample is a 1950s neighbourhood dining room where bacallà a la llauna and esqueixada sit on the carte every weekday lunch.
Signature: Esqueixada, Bacalla a la llauna
Order: The esqueixada starter and the bacallà a la llauna oven dish.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The 19 euro menu del dia at lunch is the value pick.
7 Portes in Barcelona's Born has run since 1836: arched rooms, brass plaques on regulars' tables, a paella for each day of the week.
Signature: Parellada paella, Catalan cream
Order: The Thursday paella Parellada and the crema catalana to finish.
Tip: Lunch is easier than dinner; the noon paella is held on the menu every day of the week.
More cities are in research. Want xato covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.