History

Witloof, the Belgian endive, was developed in 19th-century Brussels and became a winter-vegetable signature across the Low Countries. The gratin pairs it with sliced ham and a thick béchamel under grilled cheese. Every Belgian household has a version; Antwerp kitchens hold to a sharp Gouda or Vieux Bruges for the topping.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 8 medium Belgian endive heads
  • 8 thin slices of cooked ham
  • 50g butter, plus more for the dish
  • 50g plain flour
  • 500ml whole milk
  • 150g grated aged Gouda or Belgian Vieux Bruges
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard
  • Pinch of grated nutmeg
  • Salt, white pepper, lemon juice

Method

  1. Trim the endive heads, slice the base to remove the bitter core.
  2. Simmer in salted water with a squeeze of lemon for 10 minutes until just tender. Drain and pat dry.
  3. Wrap each endive in a slice of ham.
  4. Make a béchamel: melt the butter, whisk in flour, cook 2 minutes, then whisk in the milk gradually.
  5. Simmer the sauce over 5 minutes until thick. Stir in 100g of the cheese, the mustard and nutmeg. Season.
  6. Arrange the ham-wrapped endive in a buttered baking dish. Pour over the sauce.
  7. Top with the remaining cheese. Bake at 200C for 20 minutes until bubbling and gold.

Tip from the editors. Salt the endive cooking water heavily and add lemon; it cuts the bitterness without leaving sourness in the gratin.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat witloof gegratineerd

Witloof gegratineerd in Antwerp

Elfde Gebod ★ 4.1

Flemish, beer-led€€historisch-centrum

Elfde Gebod sits in a 16th-century building beside the cathedral, walls covered in religious statues. Belgian classics with beer sauces and a list of more than a hundred brews.

Signature: Rabbit stew in beer sauce, Mussels in white wine, Flemish carbonade

Order: The rabbit stew in beer sauce or the Flemish carbonade, both built around Belgian abbey ales from the bottle list.

Tip: Open daily noon to ten. The Suikerrui sister-room on the Scheldt is the same kitchen with a different view if Torfbrug is full.

Marolus ★ 3.9

historisch-centrum

Marolus in Antwerp on Hendrik Conscienceplein runs an under-15-euro lunch plate of the day. The square between cathedral and Carolus Borromeus seats the terrace.

Try: Lunch dish of the day

Tip: Lunch only, no dinner. The square's tree-lined terrace is the better seat in summer.

Mampoko ★ 4.0

Brasserie breakfast and brunch€12 to €25het-zuidDaily 08:30-22:00Reserve weekends

Mampoko in Antwerp on Amerikalei runs all-day brasserie service that starts with breakfast at 08:30 and rolls through brunch and lunch.

Order: Mampoko breakfast with eggs and Belgian charcuterie

Tip: The corner terrace opens with the weather. Reserve for Saturday brunch.

More cities are in research. Want witloof gegratineerd covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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