History

Father Eusebio Francisco Kino introduced white Sonora wheat to the Pimeria Alta (modern Tucson region) in the late 1690s, the first wheat grown in the Americas. The variety nearly disappeared in the 20th century to commercial high-protein wheats, but Native Seeds/SEARCH preserved the heirloom seed line. Don Guerra of Barrio Bread won James Beard Outstanding Baker 2022 for his community-supported bakery that mills white Sonora wheat from Mission Garden plots and Pivot Produce growers into naturally-leavened loaves.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Makes 1 loafHands-on 30 minTotal 24 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g white Sonora wheat flour (or substitute soft white wheat, like spelt)
  • 350g warm water (35C / 95F)
  • 100g active sourdough starter
  • 10g sea salt
  • Rice flour for dusting the banneton

Method

  1. Whisk water and sourdough starter together in a large bowl. Add flour and mix to a shaggy dough. Cover and rest 30 minutes.
  2. Add salt and a splash of water. Knead in the bowl with wet hands until incorporated, about 5 minutes.
  3. Bulk ferment 4 to 6 hours at warm room temperature (24C / 75F), folding the dough every hour for the first 3 hours. Dough should grow 60 to 80 percent and feel airy.
  4. Shape into a tight boule on a floured surface. Place seam-side up in a rice-flour-dusted banneton. Cover and refrigerate overnight (8 to 12 hours).
  5. Preheat oven and a covered Dutch oven to 250C / 480F. Tip the dough seam-side down into the hot Dutch oven, score the top with a razor.
  6. Cover and bake 20 minutes. Remove lid and bake 25 more minutes until deep brown and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped.
  7. Cool fully on a wire rack before slicing, at least 1 hour.

Tip from the editors. White Sonora wheat is lower in protein than commercial bread flour. The crumb stays soft and the crust browns deeper.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat white sonora wheat bread

White Sonora wheat bread in Tucson

Barrio Bread ★ 4.9

midtownTue-Sat 09:00-15:00Walk-in onlyHeritage white Sonora wheat sourdough

Barrio Bread on South Eastbourne in Tucson is Don Guerra's James Beard Outstanding Baker 2022 bakery, milling heritage white Sonora wheat loaves.

Worth the queue: Pan integral white Sonora wheat loaf

18 S Eastbourne Ave, Tucson, AZ 85716

Time Market ★ 4.4

main-gateDaily 07:00-22:00

Why locals love it: Sam Hughes corner store that doubles as a wood-fired pizzeria, deli, espresso bar and grocer since 1920, the neighborhood's quiet anchor.

Tip: Order the deli sandwich on house bread, the wood-fired pizza and a Time Market espresso to go. Bike-friendly.

444 E University Blvd, Tucson, AZ 85705

Beyond Bread Campbell ★ 4.5

campbellDaily 07:00-19:00Walk-in onlyEuropean-style artisan bread, sandwiches

Beyond Bread on North Campbell in Tucson is the family-owned European-oven bakery and sandwich counter since 2000, with house artisan bread.

Worth the queue: Annapurna sandwich

3026 N Campbell Ave, Tucson, AZ 85719

More cities are in research. Want white sonora wheat bread covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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