History

The tsipouro relay format emerged from the convergence of the pre-war ouzeri tradition and the tsipouro distilling culture of the Macedonian and Epirus highlands. The no-ordering format, where plates arrive continuously, is specific to the Macedonian tsipouradiko and differs from the Athenian ouzo-bar tradition.

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 bottle (700ml) chilled tsipouro, plain (not anise)
  • 300g small whitebait (atherina or marida)
  • 100g plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
  • Olive oil, for shallow frying
  • 200g feta cheese
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 ripe tomato, diced
  • 1 cucumber, peeled and diced
  • 200g pitted Kalamata olives
  • 2 lemons, cut into wedges
  • 1 country bread loaf, sliced thickly
  • Crushed red chilli flakes, to serve

Method

  1. Chill the tsipouro in the freezer for 20 minutes; it is served bracingly cold in 50ml shot glasses, never on ice in the glass (ice goes in a small bowl alongside).
  2. Toss the whitebait through the seasoned flour. Heat 1cm of olive oil in a pan to 180C.
  3. Fry the whitebait in batches for 90 seconds until crisp and pale gold. Drain on paper.
  4. Slice the feta into a 2cm slab, drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil, scatter with oregano and crushed chilli.
  5. Build the meze plates as separate small dishes: olives, diced tomato and cucumber dressed with olive oil and oregano, the feta block, the fried whitebait piled with lemon wedges.
  6. Cut country bread into thick slices and arrange in a basket.
  7. Pour 50ml shots of cold tsipouro. The rule of the table is one meze, one sip; you do not drink without eating, and you do not eat without drinking.
  8. Add new plates to the table as they empty. The session ends when nobody calls for another carafe.

Tip from the editors. Avoid anise-flavoured tsipouro (tsipouro me glykaniso) for this meal; plain tsipouro lets the fish, feta and tomatoes lead. Naoussa or Tyrnavos producers are reliable.

Where to eat tsipouro with meze

Tsipouro with Meze in Thessaloniki

Ouzeri Tsinari ★ 4.2

Greek€€Mon-Sun 13:00-24:00

Trading in some form since 1865 near Kapani market. Meze and tsipouro that have barely changed in a century. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

Why locals love it: Looks like a regular kafeneio from outside, no social media, market district location

Alexandras Papadopoulou 72, Thessaloniki 546 33

Rouga ★ 4.0

Greek€€Mon-Sun 13:00-24:00

On Giannitson near the port, Rouga is known to the port workers and city regulars who have been eating the tsipouro relay lunch here for years.

Why locals love it: Port-area location, Greek-only signage, no booking platform

Giannitson 14, Thessaloniki

Ladadika Tsipouradika ★ 4.6

Street food€

The tsipouradika of Katouni and Doxis Streets operate the Thessaloniki ritual: cold tsipouro arrives in a small carafe, meze plates follow in relay without.

Try: Tsipouro plus meze relay

Katouni Street, Thessaloniki

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