Tricandilles are Gascon-style braised pig intestines, simmered then grilled over vine cuttings, crispy outside and tender inside, served as an aperitif plate with mustard.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
Tricandilles are a Gascon specialty traditionally served at vineyard lunches and harvest festivals across the Bordeaux and Médoc wine country. The technique is classic peasant kitchen: pig intestines cleaned thoroughly, simmered for two to three hours in white wine and aromatics until tender, then grilled over vine cuttings (sarments) for the smoky finish. La Tupina on rue Porte de la Monnaie is the canonical Bordeaux address for them, grilled over the fireplace cauldron in the dining room and served as a starter or aperitif with mustard. Chartreuse de Sauternes also serves them in autumn during the grape harvest months.
Common allergens: None
Tip from the editors. Source intestines from a serious charcutier; cleaning quality matters.
La Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre district is the southwestern French institution founded by Jean-Pierre Xiradakis in 1968, now led by chef Franck Audu.
Signature: Entrecote a la bordelaise, Tricandilles, Sanguette
Tip: Sit near the open fire for the tricandilles; the lunch formula is a serious value if you book ahead for noon on a weekday.
Cafe Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the all-day, cheaper sister to La Tupina around the corner on Rue Porte de la Monnaie, with the same Xiradakis.
Signature: Magret de canard, Cassoulet, Plat du jour
Tip: Lunch is the value play; the plat du jour is roughly half what the main Tupina dining room charges and arrives on the table fast.
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