History

Tricandilles are a Gascon specialty traditionally served at vineyard lunches and harvest festivals across the Bordeaux and Médoc wine country. The technique is classic peasant kitchen: pig intestines cleaned thoroughly, simmered for two to three hours in white wine and aromatics until tender, then grilled over vine cuttings (sarments) for the smoky finish. La Tupina on rue Porte de la Monnaie is the canonical Bordeaux address for them, grilled over the fireplace cauldron in the dining room and served as a starter or aperitif with mustard. Chartreuse de Sauternes also serves them in autumn during the grape harvest months.

Common allergens: None

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 1kg cleaned pig intestines
  • 2 onions, halved
  • 2 carrots, halved
  • 1 bouquet garni
  • Salt and pepper
  • Vine cuttings or charcoal for grilling
  • Dijon mustard for serving

Method

  1. Soak intestines in salted water for 2 hours, change water twice.
  2. Drain and place in a heavy pot with onions, carrots, bouquet garni and water. Simmer 2 hours.
  3. Drain and cool. Cut into 10cm sections.
  4. Build a hot grill over vine cuttings. Grill the tricandilles 4 minutes per side until crispy.
  5. Serve hot with Dijon mustard and a glass of Madiran.

Tip from the editors. Source intestines from a serious charcutier; cleaning quality matters.

Where to eat tricandilles

Tricandilles in Bordeaux

La Tupina ★ 4.5

French Regional€€€saint-pierre

La Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre district is the southwestern French institution founded by Jean-Pierre Xiradakis in 1968, now led by chef Franck Audu.

Signature: Entrecote a la bordelaise, Tricandilles, Sanguette

Tip: Sit near the open fire for the tricandilles; the lunch formula is a serious value if you book ahead for noon on a weekday.

Cafe Tupina ★ 3.9

French Regional€€saint-pierre

Cafe Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the all-day, cheaper sister to La Tupina around the corner on Rue Porte de la Monnaie, with the same Xiradakis.

Signature: Magret de canard, Cassoulet, Plat du jour

Tip: Lunch is the value play; the plat du jour is roughly half what the main Tupina dining room charges and arrives on the table fast.

Le Petit Gascon ★ 3.8

French bistrosaint-michel

Le Petit Gascon in Bordeaux's Saint-Michel runs a €16 weekday lunch formula on Rue de la Fusterie, with two-course Gascon plates and a glass of Madiran.

Try: Lunch formula with starter and plat

Tip: Weekday lunch only for the formula; weekends switch to the a la carte menu at higher prices.

More cities are in research. Want tricandilles covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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