History

Tortillitas de camarones originate in San Fernando and the Bay of Cadiz where the tiny pink shrimp called camarones are caught in spring. The Sevillian taberna canon adopted the dish in the 19th century, with Bodega Santa Cruz and Casa Modesto serving the canonical versions. The shrimp are eaten whole, shells on, embedded in a thin chickpea-flour batter that fries to a lacy edge. The dish runs through spring and summer when the camarones are at peak.

Common allergens: Shellfish, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 20 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 200g tiny shrimp (camarones) or small whole prawns
  • 100g chickpea flour
  • 100g plain flour
  • 250ml cold water
  • 2 spring onions, finely chopped
  • Small handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
  • Sea salt to taste
  • 500ml olive oil, for frying

Method

  1. If using larger prawns, peel and chop into pea-sized pieces; tiny camarones go in whole, shells on.
  2. Combine the two flours, salt and pimenton in a bowl.
  3. Pour in the cold water gradually, whisking to a smooth thin batter, the consistency of single cream.
  4. Stir in the spring onions, parsley and shrimp.
  5. Rest the batter for 20 minutes; this lets the chickpea flour hydrate.
  6. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan to 180C.
  7. Drop tablespoons of batter into the oil, spreading out for a lacy edge. Fry 60 to 90 seconds per side until pale gold and crispy.
  8. Drain on paper towel and salt immediately. Serve hot with cold manzanilla.

Tip from the editors. Use proper Cadiz camarones if you can find them frozen; tiny shrimp give the canonical version. Manzanilla from Sanlucar is the only correct pairing.

Where to eat tortillitas de camarones

Tortillitas de Camarones in Seville

Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas ★ 4.4

Spanish tapas€

Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas, runs the city's canonical montaditos in Seville's Santa Cruz for 2 to 2.50 euros each, with a standing-room counter.

Try: Montaditos under 2.50 euros each

Tip: Standing only; six montaditos and two canas land around 12 euros for two. Cash and card accepted.

Calle Rodrigo Caro 1, 41004 Sevilla

Casa Modesto ★ 4.2

Andalusian Seafood€€€santa-cruz

Casa Modesto on Calle Cano y Cueto in Seville is the Modesto family's fried-fish flagship since 1971, with the city's canonical pescaito frito.

Signature: Pescaito frito, Cazon en adobo, Tortillitas de camarones

Order: The pescaito frito mixed plate and the tortillitas de camarones, with a glass of manzanilla.

Tip: Open daily 12:00-17:00 and 20:00-00:30. The downstairs bar is the working-day spot; the upstairs dining room takes reservations.

Calle Cano y Cueto 5, 41004 Sevilla

Bar Santa Ana ★ 4.1

Sevillian Taberna€€triana

Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.

Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo

Order: Tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa with fino.

Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.

Calle Pureza 82, 41010 Sevilla

Freiduria Puerta de la Carne ★ 4.2

Filipino€

Freiduria Puerta de la Carne on Calle Puerta de la Carne in Seville is the takeaway pescaito frito counter since the 1950s, with paper cones of cazon en.

Try: Cazon en adobo paper cone

Tip: Order at the counter, takeaway only; eat at the standing bar or take to the riverbank.

Calle Puerta de la Carne 2, 41004 Sevilla

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