History

The first written reference to tortilla de patata dates to a Basque-province document from 1817, ascribing its invention to Basque household kitchens stretching meagre eggs with potato. The dish became Spain's universal counter pintxo by the 1950s. La Vina del Ensanche, Sorginzulo and Cafe Iruna run defensible versions in Bilbao; Sorginzulo's onion-heavy tortilla has been the cult choice for the last decade.

Common allergens: Egg

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 40 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 800g floury potatoes (Maris Piper or Agria), peeled and sliced 3mm thick
  • 2 large sweet white onions, finely sliced
  • 400ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 8 large free-range eggs
  • 2 tsp fine sea salt, plus more to taste
  • Country bread, to serve
  • Pimientos de Gernika or piparras, to serve

Method

  1. Pour the olive oil into a 28cm deep frying pan over medium-low heat.
  2. Add the sliced potatoes and onions and 1 tsp salt. The oil should just cover; if not, top up.
  3. Confit gently for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender but barely coloured and the onions are translucent.
  4. Drain through a sieve set over a bowl, reserving the oil for next time (it is gold).
  5. Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the remaining salt. Tip in the warm potatoes and onions and fold through gently. Rest 10 minutes; the egg absorbs into the potato.
  6. Heat 3 tbsp of the reserved oil in a 24cm non-stick pan over medium heat.
  7. Pour in the mixture and shake the pan briskly to spread evenly. Cook 4 minutes, drawing the edges in with a spatula so curd builds.
  8. Slide the pan off the heat, place an inverted plate over the top, and flip the tortilla onto the plate (sleeve protection helps).
  9. Slide back into the pan cooked side up. Cook another 3 to 4 minutes, tucking in the edges. The centre should still wobble.
  10. Rest 5 minutes on a board. Cut into wedges and serve with bread and piparras.

Tip from the editors. The middle must stay slightly underset (jugoso); a dry tortilla is a failed one. Confit potatoes in olive oil rather than fry; the texture changes.

Where to eat tortilla de patata

Tortilla de Patata in Bilbao

Sorginzulo ★ 4.4

Spanish tapasMon-Sun 09:30-00:30

Sorginzulo on Plaza Nueva in Bilbao makes a 2023 Spanish Tortilla Championship finalist with Euskaber eggs, plus traditional Basque pintxos.

Try: Tortilla de patata pintxo

La Vina del Ensanche ★ 4.5

Cocktail barPintxo bar€€€

La Vina del Ensanche on Diputacion in Bilbao since 1927 runs three rooms under the third family generation, Joselito Iberian ham the house pintxo.

Signature drink: Spanish wines by the glass

Food: Joselito ham on crystal bread, croquetas de jamon, bonito

Cafe Iruna ★ 4.4

Basque€€Mon-Thu 09:00-23:00; Fri 09:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00Until Daily until 23:30

Cafe Iruna on Jardines de Albia in Bilbao opened in 1903, with 300 square metres of Mudejar tiles and pinchos morunos at the corner charcoal grill.

Try: Pinchos morunos, traditional Basque pintxos

Bar Charly ★ 4.2

BasqueMon-Sun 09:30-24:00

Bar Charly on Plaza Nueva in Bilbao since 1973 keeps a traditional Casco Viejo pintxo counter with bacalao croquettes, bonito and the gilda.

Try: Pintxo gilda, bacalao croquette

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