History

Topfenstrudel arrived in Vienna from Hungary via the Habsburg court kitchens, taking hold in 19th-century Kaffeehaus baking. The version at Demel still uses hand-pulled dough and fresh Austrian Topfen. Café Landtmann and Vollpension both run the Mehlspeise as a daily offer; Kurkonditorei Oberlaa serves a notable cold version with apricot sauce in summer.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 300g strong bread flour
  • 1 egg
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil, plus extra for resting
  • 150ml warm water
  • Pinch of salt
  • 500g full-fat Topfen (or Greek strained quark or full-fat ricotta)
  • 100g unsalted butter, softened
  • 150g caster sugar
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped
  • 3 eggs, separated
  • 150ml sour cream
  • 2 tbsp custard powder or cornflour
  • 120g raisins, soaked in 3 tbsp rum
  • 80g unsalted butter, melted, for brushing
  • Icing sugar, to dust
  • 500ml warm vanilla sauce, to serve

Method

  1. Make the dough: combine flour, egg, oil, salt and warm water. Knead 10 minutes until smooth and very elastic. Brush with oil, cover, rest 45 minutes.
  2. For the filling, beat the softened butter with sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and vanilla seeds until pale. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, then the Topfen and sour cream.
  3. Sift in the custard powder and beat smooth. Stir in the soaked raisins (drained).
  4. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks. Fold gently into the cheese mixture.
  5. Lay a large floured cloth on the table. Roll the dough to a square, then stretch with the backs of your hands from underneath until paper-thin and almost transparent.
  6. Trim thick edges. Brush the whole sheet with melted butter.
  7. Spread the cheese filling over the bottom third of the sheet, leaving 5cm clear at the sides. Fold the sides in over the filling.
  8. Using the cloth, roll the strudel into a tight log. Carefully lift onto a buttered baking sheet, seam-side down, curving gently.
  9. Brush all over with the remaining melted butter. Bake at 200C for 35 to 40 minutes until deep golden.
  10. Rest 10 minutes. Dust with icing sugar, cut on the diagonal, serve with hot vanilla sauce poured over.

Tip from the editors. Topfen has higher fat than ricotta; if substituting, drain the ricotta in a sieve overnight or the filling weeps. Egg whites lighten the curd.

Where to eat topfenstrudel

Topfenstrudel in Vienna

Demel ★ 4.5

Caféinnere-stadt

Demel on Kohlmarkt has been a court confectioner since 1786, the Eduard-Sacher-Torte and Anna-Torte from the K. und K. Hofzuckerbaecker still served.

Signature drink: Hot chocolate

Tip: The first-floor dining room takes the queue; the ground-floor takeaway moves faster for a Sachertorte to-go.

Cafe Landtmann ★ 4.4

Caféinnere-stadtWork-friendlyWifi

Cafe Landtmann on Universitaetsring in Vienna has poured at the Burgtheater corner since 1873, Sigmund Freud's preferred coffeehouse with a long carte.

Signature drink: Grosser Brauner

Tip: Open daily 07:30 to midnight; the front-room bench seats face the Burgtheater across the Ring.

Vollpension ★ 4.6

Cafe€€wieden

Vollpension on Schleifmuehlgasse in Vienna's Wieden hires Viennese grandmothers and grandfathers to bake the menu of Strudel, Torten and Mehlspeise.

Signature: Apfelstrudel, Topfengolatschen

Order: Apfelstrudel with vanilla sauce, made that morning by one of the resident grandmothers.

Tip: The dining room fills fast on weekends; the Naschmarkt branch at Stand 343 takes the spillover.

Kurkonditorei Oberlaa ★ 4.4

Bakeryinnere-stadtMon-Sun 08:00-20:00Viennese Konditorei

Kurkonditorei Oberlaa on Neuer Markt in Vienna runs the Karl Schuhmacher Konditorei from 1974, the wide carte of Torten the modern alternative to the Demel.

Tip: The Oberlaa Torte is the house signature; the Mehlspeisen counter beats the cafe for takeaway.

Worth the queue: Oberlaa Torte

Cafe Sperl ★ 4.5

CafémariahilfWork-friendlyWifi

Cafe Sperl on Gumpendorfer Strasse in Vienna's Mariahilf has poured since 1880, the bentwood Thonet chairs, parquet. At Gumpendorfer Strasse 11.

Signature drink: Melange

Tip: The carambole tables at the back are still in play; ask the kitchen for a Sperl Torte with your Melange.

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