Tlacoyos
Photo: Arnold Gatilao from Oakland, CA, USA · CC BY 2.0

History

Tlacoyos are a Pre-Hispanic dish dating to the Aztec era, originally made on the comal griddle from nixtamalised corn masa stuffed with the same wild beans, fava beans or chickpeas. The name comes from the Nahuatl tlatlaoyo (corn cake). The blue-corn version comes from the heirloom maize varieties of Tlaxcala and Estado de Mexico that still survive at Mercado de San Juan and Tlacoyos Dona Jose. Modern restaurants like Expendio de Maiz have built modern Mexican cuisine around this canonical dish.

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Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g blue corn masa harina (or fresh blue masa)
  • 300ml warm water
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 200g cooked black beans, mashed to a paste
  • 1 small white onion, finely chopped
  • Lard or neutral oil for the comal
  • 200g queso fresco, crumbled
  • 150g nopales, cleaned and diced, sauteed
  • Salsa verde
  • 1 small white onion, chopped, for garnish

Method

  1. Mix the masa harina with salt and warm water until you have a smooth dough that doesn't stick to your hands. Rest 10 minutes.
  2. Divide the dough into 8 equal balls. Flatten each ball to a 12cm round on a sheet of plastic wrap.
  3. Place a tablespoon of mashed beans in the centre. Fold the dough over the beans, sealing the edges, then shape into an oval about 12cm long and 1cm thick.
  4. Heat a dry comal or heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook each tlacoyo 3 to 4 minutes per side until the masa is set, dry on the outside and gently browned.
  5. Top each hot tlacoyo with sauteed nopales, a scatter of queso fresco, a spoon of salsa verde and chopped onion.

Tip from the editors. The masa should feel like soft Play-Doh. If it cracks at the edges, knead in a little more water. Real fresh blue masa from a tortilleria makes a noticeable difference.

Where to eat tlacoyos

Tlacoyos in Mexico City

Tlacoyos Dona Jose ★ 4.3

$ Street foodRoma NorteCash only

Tlacoyos Dona Jose in Mexico City is the Roma Norte breakfast comal on Cordoba, the comal-griddle counter that puts out blue-corn tlacoyos filled with frijol.

OrderTwo tlacoyos de haba topped with nopales, queso fresco and salsa verde.

TipCash only and weekday mornings only; the queue forms around 09:00 with neighbourhood regulars. Last sale is when the masa runs out.

Directions

Expendio de Maiz Sin Nombre ★ 4.6

$$ YucatecanRoma Norte

Expendio de Maiz Sin Nombre is tiny no-sign counter on yucatan that serves whatever the chef wants that day, with ten seats and only heirloom corn.

Why locals goTiny no-sign counter on Yucatan that serves whatever the chef wants that day, with ten seats and only heirloom corn.

TipWed-Sun 13:00-19:00 only; arrive at opening for the day's full menu and bring cash.

Directions

Molino El Pujol ★ 4.6

$$ Heirloom-corn MexicanCondesa

Molino El Pujol in Mexico City is Enrique Olvera's Condesa heirloom-corn cafe on Sinaloa, the daytime molino that grinds native maize for tlacoyos.

OrderA tlacoyo de haba; a quesadilla de masa azul de huitlacoche; a torta of the day.

TipOpen daily 08:00-18:00. The blue-corn tortillas to take home are sold in stacks at the counter; the public is welcome to watch the milling.

Directions

Mercado de Coyoacan ★ 4.5

$ MarketCoyoacan

Mercado de Coyoacan in Mexico City is the southern neighbourhood market on Ignacio Allende near the Frida Kahlo Museum, a 350-vendor traditional market.

Directions

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