Where to eat Tamagoyaki

Method

1. Beat the eggs gently with the dashi, shoyu, mirin, sugar and salt; do not whisk to a foam, you want streaks of yolk still visible.
2. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve to remove the chalazae; this is the structural step for a smooth texture.
3. Heat a square 15cm Japanese tamagoyaki pan (or a small rectangular frying pan) over medium heat. Brush very lightly with oil using a paper towel folded over chopsticks.
4. Pour in a thin layer of egg (about 4 tbsp), tilt to cover the pan, immediately pop any large bubbles with chopsticks.
5. While the surface is still tacky-wet, use chopsticks or a spatula to roll the egg layer from the far edge of the pan toward you into a tight cylinder.
6. Push the roll to the far edge of the pan, brush the empty pan surface with more oil, and pour in the next thin layer of egg, lifting the existing roll so the new egg flows underneath.
7. When the new layer is set on the bottom but tacky on top, roll the existing cylinder back toward you, picking up the new layer; you now have a thicker roll.
8. Repeat for 5 to 7 layers total, building up a fat golden block. The interior should remain just-set and almost creamy, the exterior pale gold.
9. Tip the tamagoyaki onto a bamboo sushi mat, wrap and press for 60 seconds into a neat rectangle.
10. Slice across into 2cm thick blocks. Plate with a small mound of grated daikon (with a few drops of shoyu) and pickled ginger.