History

Svickova evolved in Bohemian bourgeois kitchens through the 19th century. Marinating tough cuts in vegetable brine softened them; the cream sauce thickened from root vegetables pureed after braising. By 1900 it was the canonical Sunday lunch across Czech households, often paired with the family's Pilsner. Now it anchors the Lokal pub menu and turns up in modernised tasting-menu form at Field and La Degustation. The garnish remains a fixed Czech form: thin slices of meat, a pool of cream sauce, a tablespoon of brusinky (cranberry jam) on the meat, lemon slice and a piped rosette of whipped cream beside it.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 1 hrTotal 3 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 kg beef sirloin in one piece
  • 200g carrot, peeled and chopped
  • 200g parsnip or parsley root
  • 200g celeriac, peeled and chopped
  • 1 yellow onion, sliced
  • 100g smoked bacon, cut in lardons
  • 1 bay leaf, 5 allspice berries, 5 black peppercorns
  • 50ml red wine vinegar
  • 200ml double cream
  • 1 tbsp flour
  • 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • Pinch of grated lemon zest
  • Salt and black pepper
  • Bread dumplings and cranberry jam to serve
  • Whipped cream to finish

Method

  1. Salt the sirloin and lard it with bacon lardons, leaving it overnight wrapped in cloth.
  2. Roast the vegetables, onion, spices and vinegar with 500ml water in a covered pan at 150C for 30 minutes.
  3. Add the sirloin to the pan, cover, and braise at 150C for 90 minutes, basting every 20 minutes.
  4. Lift out the meat and rest under foil. Sieve the vegetables and braising liquid through a fine strainer, pressing through every drop.
  5. Whisk the cream with the flour, then whisk into the strained sauce in a clean pan. Simmer 5 minutes, whisking, until thick.
  6. Stir in the mustard and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper.
  7. Slice the meat thinly. Serve with bread dumplings, a generous ladle of sauce, cranberry jam, and a swirl of whipped cream.

Tip from the editors. The marinade is the dish; do not skip the overnight rest with the bacon lardons.

Where to eat svickova na smetane

Svickova na smetane in Prague

Lokal Dlouhaaa ★ 4.4

Czech€€stare-mestoMon-Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-22:00Until 00:00 Mon-Wed, 01:00 Thu-Sat, 22:00 Sun

Lokal Dlouhaaa stays open to 01:00 weekend nights, pouring tank Pilsner and serving classic Czech pub food until last orders. Located in Stare Mesto.

Try: Tank Pilsner, Czech pub menu

Tip: Last food order is 30 minutes before close; the smazeny syr is the late dish.

U Modre Kachnicky ★ 4.2

Czech Traditional€€mala-stranaDaily 12:00-23:00

U Modre Kachnicky in Mala Strana cooks the old Czech repertoire, roast duck and venison, in two Baroque-era dining rooms a five-minute walk from Charles.

Signature: Roast duck, Venison goulash

Order: The duck with bread dumplings and red cabbage.

Lokal Hamburk ★ 4.3

Cocktail barCzech beer hall€€€karlinDaily 11:00-23:00

Lokal Hamburk in Karlin is the river-harbour-themed Ambiente Lokal, the most neighbourhood-feeling of the chain. Order the tank pilsner urquell.

Signature drink: Tank Pilsner Urquell

Food: Czech pub menu

Tip: The terrace seats in summer go fast; book ahead Friday onward.

Vycep ★ 4.3

CzechChef Jiri Hrachovy€€€€950 $vinohradyMon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00Book 1 week ahead

Vycep in Vinohrady earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2025. Chef Jiri Hrachovy modernises Czech pub cooking with a touch of Wallachian sheep-cheese country.

Order: The Wallachian halusky with bryndza; the Pilsner pour from tank.

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