History
Surströmming traces to medieval Baltic fishermen who used minimum salt (rare and expensive in the north) to preserve herring; the result fermented. The trade codified in the 16th century. By royal decree, the year's surströmming can be released no earlier than the third Thursday of August (Surströmmingspremiär). The traditional surströmmingsskiva is eaten outdoors with new potatoes, raw onion, sour cream, tunnbröd and snaps. Pelikan, Tennstopet and Kvarnen all run sittings in late August.
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Common allergens: Fish, Dairy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 tin of surströmming, kept refrigerated and opened outdoors or underwater
- 8 sheets tunnbröd (Swedish thin flatbread, soft variety)
- 8 small boiled new potatoes (almond potatoes if available)
- 1 large red onion, finely diced
- 200g sour cream
- Chopped fresh chives or dill
- Snaps (Bäska Droppar or O.P. Anderson) to drink
- Beer to follow
Method
- Open the surströmming tin OUTDOORS or submerged in water in a deep bucket. The gas escape is forceful.
- Drain the brine and rinse the herring fillets gently in cold water. Pat dry.
- Lay a sheet of tunnbröd flat. Spread sour cream across the centre. Add 2-3 small boiled potato halves and a tablespoon of diced red onion.
- Lay a small portion of surströmming fillet on top. Sprinkle chives.
- Roll the tunnbröd tight. Eat with snaps and beer chasers; ideally outdoors with friends prepared for the smell.
Tip from the editors. Open the tin outdoors or underwater. The smell takes days to leave a kitchen; never open one indoors as a joke. The new potatoes balance the salt and ferment.
Where to eat surströmming (fermented baltic herring)
Surströmming (fermented Baltic herring) in Stockholm
Pelikan ★ 4.3
Pelikan on Blekingegatan in Stockholm's Södermalm has cooked husmanskost in the vaulted 1904 hall since the Pelikan name moved from Gamla Stan, meatballs.
OrderThe meatball plate with mash, brown sauce, lingonberry and pickled cucumber.
TipThe smaller dining room is calmer than the big hall. Skip the queue by booking the bar counter online.
Tennstopet ★ 4.2
Tennstopet: 1907 journalist's pub on Dalagatan; tourists head to Pelikan but locals know this bar runs later on weeknights with the same husmanskost.
Why locals go1907 journalist's pub on Dalagatan; tourists head to Pelikan but locals know this bar runs later on weeknights with the same husmanskost.
TipOpen seven days; kitchen until 23:00. Bar until 02:00 on Friday and Saturday.
Kvarnen ★ 4.3
Kvarnen is on tjärhovsgatan in södermalm since 1908; oak-paneled hall the tour buses miss because the stieg larsson tie keeps it on the locals' track.
Why locals goOn Tjärhovsgatan in Södermalm since 1908; oak-paneled hall the tour buses miss because the Stieg Larsson tie keeps it on the locals' track.
TipWalk through to the back room: the Czech beer hall pours small-brewery picks until 03:00 on Friday and Saturday.
Tradition ★ 4.2
Tradition on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan is a tight Old Town room cooking the Swedish home-canon: pyttipanna, kåldolmar, raggmunk and Toast.
OrderPyttipanna with pickled beetroot and fried egg; the Thursday ärtsoppa with pancakes is the rule.
TipClosed Sunday. Lunch is the better sitting; the kitchen runs the dagens lunch sub-150 kronor.
Den Gyldene Freden ★ 4.3
Den Gyldene Freden on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan opened in 1722 and remains the oldest restaurant in continuous operation under the same name.
OrderWallenbergare with pea purée, lingonberry and brown butter potatoes.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The vaulted cellar is the heritage room; the upstairs table runs quieter.
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