Stoccafisso accomodato is soaked stockfish stewed in a terracotta pot with potatoes, olives, capers, pine nuts, tomato, garlic and parsley, a winter dish of the old port city of Genoa.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
The port of Genoa was already among the most important in the world in the Middle Ages, and the city's tourist office explains that when fresh fish was scarce in winter, Genoese sailors relied on stockfish, dried cod that kept for months. Stockfish has been known in Liguria since the 17th century through trade with the Portuguese, and the region lists stoccafisso among its traditional food products; accomodato, stewed with olives and potatoes, is its best-known Genoese form.
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Common allergens: Fish, Nuts
Tip from the editors. Start from stockfish sold già bagnato, already soaked, as the Genoese recipe does, and add the potatoes only once the pot simmers.
Il Genovese on Via Galata in Genoa began in 1912 as a farinotto called Raggio; its fried dishes, pansoti and stoccafisso keep the old sciamadda repertoire.
OrderThe mixed fritti in olive oil, or the pansoti with walnut sauce from the primi list.
TipThe site lists the fried items as frisceü, panissette, latte brusco, gattafin and fried tripe, sold alone or as a mixed plate.
Toe Drue Antica Osteria in Sestri Ponente, Genoa, began as a shipyard workers' osteria in the early 1900s and serves cappon magro, pesto and fried panissa.
OrderCappon magro, home-made pesto, breaded anchovies or the fried panissa, all listed on the site.
TipThe lunch menu is two dishes from the blackboard for €28, cover and water included; it is not valid on public holidays.
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