Khao niao
Photo: Takeaway · CC BY-SA 3.0

History

Sticky rice is the foundation of the northern and northeastern Thai table, and Chiang Mai is firmly sticky-rice country. Glutinous rice is soaked for hours, then steamed over water in a cone-shaped bamboo basket until translucent and chewy, and kept in a woven lidded kratip that keeps it warm and soft. It is eaten with the hands: a small ball is pinched off, rolled, and used to scoop nam prik, sausage, grilled meat or curry. More than a side, it sets the communal, utensil-free rhythm of Lanna eating and appears at every meal from street stall to temple feast.

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Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 10 minTotal 4 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g Thai glutinous (sticky) rice
  • Water for soaking and steaming

Method

  1. Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, then soak in cold water at least 4 hours or overnight.
  2. Drain and tip into a bamboo steaming basket or a muslin-lined steamer.
  3. Steam over rapidly boiling water 20 to 25 minutes, flipping the rice mass once halfway.
  4. The rice is ready when it is translucent, glossy and chewy.
  5. Turn out, fluff briefly and keep covered in a lidded basket until serving.

Tip from the editors. Do not skip the long soak; unsoaked glutinous rice steams unevenly and stays hard in the centre.

Where to eat khao niao

Khao niao in Chiang Mai

Huen Phen ★ 4.5

฿฿ Northern ThaiOld City

A 50-year Old City institution south of Wat Chedi Luang, serving a full Lanna spread by day and a candlelit antique-crammed dinner room by night.

SignatureKhao soi, Nam prik ong, Gaeng hang lay

Directions

Huen Muan Jai ★ 4.6

฿฿ Northern ThaiChang Phueak

A garden Lanna house and longtime Michelin Bib Gourmand, plating northern curries, herb sausage and smoky chili dips under its wooden garden pavilions.

SignatureGaeng hang lay, Sai ua, Nam prik noom

Directions

SP Chicken ★ 4.2

฿ ThaiOld City

Charcoal gai yang, papaya salad and sticky rice near Wat Phra Singh make SP Chicken one of the Old City's best-value Isan-style lunches under 150 baht.

TryGrilled chicken and som tam

Directions

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