Huen Phen ★ 4.5
A 50-year Old City institution south of Wat Chedi Luang, serving a full Lanna spread by day and a candlelit antique-crammed dinner room by night.
Signature: Khao soi, Nam prik ong, Gaeng hang lay
History
Sticky rice is the foundation of the northern and northeastern Thai table, and Chiang Mai is firmly sticky-rice country. Glutinous rice is soaked for hours, then steamed over water in a cone-shaped bamboo basket until translucent and chewy, and kept in a woven lidded kratip that keeps it warm and soft. It is eaten with the hands: a small ball is pinched off, rolled, and used to scoop nam prik, sausage, grilled meat or curry. More than a side, it sets the communal, utensil-free rhythm of Lanna eating and appears at every meal from street stall to temple feast.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 500g Thai glutinous (sticky) rice
- Water for soaking and steaming
Method
- Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, then soak in cold water at least 4 hours or overnight.
- Drain and tip into a bamboo steaming basket or a muslin-lined steamer.
- Steam over rapidly boiling water 20 to 25 minutes, flipping the rice mass once halfway.
- The rice is ready when it is translucent, glossy and chewy.
- Turn out, fluff briefly and keep covered in a lidded basket until serving.
Tip from the editors. Do not skip the long soak; unsoaked glutinous rice steams unevenly and stays hard in the centre.
Where to eat khao niao
Khao niao in Chiang Mai
Huen Muan Jai ★ 4.6
A garden Lanna house and longtime Michelin Bib Gourmand, plating northern curries, herb sausage and smoky chili dips under its wooden garden pavilions.
Signature: Gaeng hang lay, Sai ua, Nam prik noom
SP Chicken ★ 4.2
Charcoal gai yang, papaya salad and sticky rice near Wat Phra Singh make SP Chicken one of the Old City's best-value Isan-style lunches under 150 baht.
Try: Grilled chicken and som tam
More cities are in research. Want khao niao covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.