History

The St. Louis cut is a butchery style, not a recipe: pork spare ribs squared off by trimming the sternum, cartilage and flap, leaving an even rack that cooks consistently. The name reflects the city's role as a major 20th-century pork-processing centre. Local smokehouses like Pappy's and Salt + Smoke turn the cut into Memphis- and Texas-leaning ribs, and the trim is now a standard term on menus and in butcher cases across the country.

Make it at home

Yield 3Hands-on 30 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 rack St. Louis-cut pork spare ribs
  • 3 tbsp dry rub: paprika, brown sugar, salt, pepper, garlic powder
  • Apple or cherry wood chunks
  • Barbecue sauce to finish

Method

  1. Pull the membrane off the back of the ribs and coat both sides with the dry rub.
  2. Set up a smoker or grill for indirect heat at about 110C with apple or cherry wood.
  3. Smoke the ribs meat-side up for about 3 hours until a bark forms.
  4. Wrap in foil with a splash of liquid and cook another 1.5 to 2 hours until tender.
  5. Unwrap, brush with sauce and firm the glaze over direct heat for a few minutes before slicing.

Tip from the editors. Apple or cherry wood gives the mild, sweet smoke St. Louis smokehouses favour over heavier hickory.

Where to eat st. louis-style ribs

St. Louis-style ribs in St. Louis

Pappy's Smokehouse ★ 4.6

American BBQ$$midtownMon & Wed 11:00-16:00, Thu 11:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Tue

Pappy's smokes Memphis-style ribs over apple and cherry wood in Midtown and lands on national BBQ lists. The ribs are the order, and they sell out daily.

Order: Dry-rubbed ribs smoked over apple and cherry wood.

Tip: Arrive before noon at weekends; they smoke a fixed amount each day and close when it is gone. Cash and card both work.

Salt + Smoke ★ 4.4

Bbq$$delmar-loopSun-Thu 11:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00

Salt + Smoke smokes brisket over post oak for 16 hours in the Delmar Loop and pairs it with a deep bourbon list. The city's leading new-school BBQ name.

Order: Post-oak brisket with the fried pimento-cheese balls.

Tip: Brisket sells out, so save a spot on the waitlist or come early. The bourbon and beer list is as much the draw as the meat.

Bogart's Smokehouse ★ 4.3

Bbq$$soulardTue-Sat 10:30-16:00, closed Sun-Mon

Bogart's smokes its signature apricot-bruleed ribs in historic Soulard, torching the sweet glaze to order, a counter-service BBQ joint that draws long.

Order: The apricot-bruleed ribs.

Tip: The bruleed ribs are the order to try. Come at off-peak hours to skip the line.

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