History

The St. Louis cut is a butchery style, not a recipe: pork spare ribs squared off by trimming the sternum, cartilage and flap, leaving an even rack that cooks consistently. The name reflects the city's role as a major 20th-century pork-processing centre. Local smokehouses like Pappy's and Salt + Smoke turn the cut into Memphis- and Texas-leaning ribs, and the trim is now a standard term on menus and in butcher cases across the country.

Make it at home

Yield Serves 3 to 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 rack St. Louis-cut pork spare ribs
  • 3 tbsp dry rub: paprika, brown sugar, salt, pepper, garlic powder
  • Apple or cherry wood chunks
  • Barbecue sauce to finish

Method

  1. Pull the membrane off the back of the ribs and coat both sides with the dry rub.
  2. Set up a smoker or grill for indirect heat at about 110C with apple or cherry wood.
  3. Smoke the ribs meat-side up for about 3 hours until a bark forms.
  4. Wrap in foil with a splash of liquid and cook another 1.5 to 2 hours until tender.
  5. Unwrap, brush with sauce and firm the glaze over direct heat for a few minutes before slicing.

Tip from the editors. Apple or cherry wood gives the mild, sweet smoke St. Louis smokehouses favour over heavier hickory.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat st. louis-style ribs

St. Louis-style ribs in St. Louis

Pappy's Smokehouse ★ 4.6

Memphis-style BBQ$$midtownMon & Wed 11:00-16:00, Thu 11:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Tue

Pappy's smokes Memphis-style ribs over apple and cherry wood in Midtown and lands on national BBQ lists. The ribs are the order, and they sell out daily.

Order: Dry-rubbed ribs smoked over apple and cherry wood.

Tip: Arrive before noon at weekends; they smoke a fixed amount each day and close when it is gone. Cash and card both work.

Salt + Smoke ★ 4.4

BBQ$$delmar-loopSun-Thu 11:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00

Salt + Smoke smokes brisket over post oak for 16 hours in the Delmar Loop and pairs it with a deep bourbon list. The city's leading new-school BBQ name.

Order: Post-oak brisket with the fried pimento-cheese balls.

Tip: Brisket sells out, so save a spot on the waitlist or come early. The bourbon and beer list is as much the draw as the meat.

Bogart's Smokehouse ★ 4.3

BBQ$$soulard

Bogart's smokes its signature apricot-bruleed ribs in historic Soulard, torching the sweet glaze to order, a counter-service BBQ joint that draws long lunchtime lines.

Order: The apricot-bruleed ribs.

Tip: The bruleed ribs are the order to try. Come at off-peak hours to skip the line.

More cities are in research. Want st. louis-style ribs covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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