History

The Baltic sprat (Sprattus sprattus balticus) has been Latvia's most internationally recognised food export since the early 20th century, with smoked-sprat canneries opening across Riga in the 1920s and 1930s. The Skonto and Brivais Vilnis brands still dominate the canned market. Riga's Centrāltirgus fish pavilion remains the city's strongest counter for fresh smoked sprats, with vendors building the classic Latvian open-faced rye sandwich of šprotes, onion and hard-boiled egg.

Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 15 minTotal 25 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 can (200g) smoked Baltic sprats in oil (Skonto, Brivais Vilnis, or similar)
  • 6 thick slices Latvian dark rye bread
  • 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
  • 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
  • Fresh dill, chopped
  • Sea salt, black pepper
  • Butter, for the rye

Method

  1. Butter each slice of rye bread generously. The fat anchors the smoked-fish flavour.
  2. Lay 3 to 4 sprats lengthwise across each slice, draining briefly on a paper towel first to remove excess oil.
  3. Top each sandwich with a slice or two of hard-boiled egg.
  4. Scatter thinly sliced red onion across the top, then a generous pinch of chopped fresh dill.
  5. Season with sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Serve immediately with cold kefir or a glass of Riga Black Balsam mixed with tonic.

Tip from the editors. The sandwich works only with proper dense Latvian rye. Soft sandwich bread collapses under the oil and ruins the texture.

Where to eat šprotes (smoked baltic sprats)

Šprotes (smoked Baltic sprats) in Riga

Centrāltirgus Smoked Fish Pavilion ★ 4.4

Street food€centraltirgus-maskavasMon-Sun 07:30-18:00

The fish pavilion at Centrāltirgus runs Riga's strongest counter of smoked Baltic sprats, with vendors building open-faced rye sandwiches to take away.

Try: Smoked sprats and šprotes sandwiches

Order: A smoked-sprats rye sandwich with onion and egg, the canonical Latvian street snack.

Tip: The vendors rotate fish daily; arrive by 11:00 for the day's best catch.

Nēģu iela 7, Rīga, LV-1050

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€centraltirgus-maskavasMon-Thu 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs anchors Riga's budget Latvian eating, with hot-counter plates of karbonāde, grey peas and pīrāgi for under €15 in a wooden-castle complex.

Try: Latvian buffet plates

Tip: Pay by weight at the till; a full meal with a beer lands around €12 on a weekday.

Krasta iela 76, Rīga, LV-1019

Pētergailis ★ 4.2

Traditional Latvian€€vecrigaDaily 12:00-24:00

Pētergailis has worked the Old Town corner between St. John's and St. Peter's churches since 1978, cooking traditional Latvian dishes with mostly Latvian.

Signature: Pelēkie zirņi (grey peas), Roasted Latvian pork, Karbonāde

Order: The grey peas with bacon, the kitchen's anchor dish since opening.

Tip: Named for the golden rooster atop St. Peter's; the dining room is filled with a long-collected display of ceramic roosters and hens.

Skārņu iela 25, Rīga, LV-1050 Book →

Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs ★ 4.5

Lithuanian€€vecrigaMon 14:00-02:00; Tue-Thu 16:00-02:00; Fri 16:00-04:00; Sat 16:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-04:00Until Open until 04:00 Fri-Sat

Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs is Old Town's most reliable late-night cellar, 32 Latvian beer taps with folk music until 02:00 weekdays and 04:00 on weekends.

Try: Latvian beer and pub plates

Order: A late-night Latvian craft beer flight with a plate of pelēkie zirņi.

Tip: Open until 04:00 on Saturday is unusual for Riga; the cellar absorbs the post-club crowd around the Old Town.

Peldu iela 19, Rīga, LV-1050

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