Tri Sesira ★ 4.6
Tri Sesira (Three Hats) opened on Skadarska in 1864 in a building whose previous workshop had three pleated hats for trademark. Skadarlija anchor.
Signature drink: Sljivovica, Tamjanika
Food: Cevapi, sarma, gibanica, mixed grill
Sljivovica is the Serbian plum brandy, the national rakija. Twice-distilled from fresh plums, aged in oak, with a fruity edge that runs from clear to deep amber.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Sljivovica is Serbia's national spirit, protected as a geographic indication. The damson plum varieties of Sumadija and southern Serbia anchor the canonical style; every village holds its own distillery tradition. Belgrade Skadarlija kafane pour flights of regional sljivovica as the canonical Serbian opener.
Common allergens: None
Tip from the editors. Stara sljivovica (5+ year aged in oak) is what Belgrade kafane serve for the special occasion. Look for bottles from Sumadija or Pozega for the canonical regional anchor.
Tri Sesira (Three Hats) opened on Skadarska in 1864 in a building whose previous workshop had three pleated hats for trademark. Skadarlija anchor.
Signature drink: Sljivovica, Tamjanika
Food: Cevapi, sarma, gibanica, mixed grill
Sesir Moj has live tamburica weekdays 18:00-01:00 and weekend matinees from 15:00. The Skadarska kitchen keeps Serbian classics open until close in Belgrade.
Try: Karadjordjeva snicla, pljeskavica, mixed grill
Question Mark is the oldest kafana in Belgrade, opened 1826 by Doctor Toma. The Ottoman-era low chairs and last-century decoration still in use.
Why locals love it: Belgrade's oldest kafana sits opposite the Saborna Church in plain sight, but the low Ottoman-era chairs and quiet interior pass most tourists by
Tip: Sit at the back near the stove and order a rakija flight; the front window seats trap the tour groups.
Manufaktura on Kralja Petra plates traditional Serbian with regional cheeses, Mangalica meats and cherry iced tea in Belgrade. Large garden seating.
Signature: Cevapcici, Mangalica platter, Homemade cherry iced tea
More cities are in research. Want sljivovica covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.