Åpent Bakeri Inkognito Terrasse ★ 4.5
Åpent Bakeri's Inkognito Terrasse branch behind the Royal Palace is the original 1998 room of bakers Emmanuel Rang and Øyvind Lofthus, with morning skolebrød.
Worth the queue: Skolebrød and butter croissants
History
Skolebrød (school bread) became a Norwegian bakery fixture in the mid-20th century, eaten with milk through the school day and adopted by every bakery counter in Oslo. The cardamom-spiced enriched bun is baked with a vanilla custard centre, glazed with white icing and finished in desiccated coconut. Åpent Bakeri and Talormannen run the canonical Oslo versions; Hagen Konditori in Grünerløkka keeps the most traditional shape.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 500g strong white bread flour
- 75g caster sugar
- 7g instant dried yeast
- 1 1/2 tsp freshly ground cardamom
- 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
- 250ml whole milk, warm
- 75g unsalted butter, softened
- 1 egg, beaten
- 400ml whole milk (for custard)
- 1 vanilla pod, split, or 2 tsp vanilla bean paste
- 4 egg yolks
- 70g caster sugar (for custard)
- 30g cornflour
- 150g icing sugar, for the glaze
- 100g desiccated coconut, to finish
Method
- Make the custard first. Warm the 400ml milk with the vanilla. Whisk the yolks, sugar and cornflour, pour the milk over, return to the pan and cook over low heat, stirring, until the custard thickens. Cool with cling film on the surface.
- For the dough, combine flour, sugar, yeast, cardamom and salt in a stand mixer. Add the warm milk and egg, knead on low for 6 minutes, then add the butter a piece at a time and knead for 6 more minutes until smooth.
- Cover and prove until doubled, about 1 hour.
- Knock back and divide into 12 pieces (about 75g each). Shape into tight balls and place on a lined tray. Press a deep well into each with the back of a tablespoon.
- Spoon a generous tablespoon of cold custard into each well. Cover and prove for 35 to 45 minutes until puffy.
- Heat the oven to 210C. Brush exposed dough with beaten egg and bake for 10 to 12 minutes until deep gold.
- Cool 10 minutes, then mix the icing sugar with 2 to 3 tbsp water to a thick glaze. Spoon a ring of glaze around the custard and roll the glazed edge in coconut.
Tip from the editors. Grind whole cardamom pods yourself; the pre-ground stuff loses its punch in days. Keep the icing off the custard; the bare yellow centre is the visual signature.
Where to eat skolebrød
Skolebrød in Oslo
The Little Pickle Bakery ★ 4.5
The Little Pickle on Jens Bjelkes gate runs the bakery side of its Michelin Bib Gourmand all-day room, with rotating sourdoughs and cardamom buns served.
Worth the queue: Cardamom buns
Talormade ★ 4.4
Talormade on Operagata in Bjorvika is the bakery-cafe and roastery behind Oslo's ice-cream doughnut, with a working pastry kitchen on Operagata and a second.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
More cities are in research. Want skolebrød covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.