History

Saucisson brioché belongs to the Lyonnais bouchon canon codified by the meres of the early 20th century. The sausage, traditionally a lightly garlic-and-wine cured saucisson de Lyon (a fresh cooking salami, not the dried rosette), is wrapped in an enriched brioche and baked slowly so the sausage finishes inside the loaf. Bocuse the elder served it at his Collonges restaurant; the bouchons in Vieux Lyon still use it as the canonical entree.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 8 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 1 saucisson de Lyon (cooking sausage), about 500g, lightly truffled if available
  • For the brioche: 350g strong bread flour
  • 50g caster sugar
  • 1 teaspoon fine salt
  • 10g instant dried yeast
  • 4 large eggs (cold)
  • 60ml whole milk (cold)
  • 220g cold unsalted butter cubed
  • 1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water, for glaze
  • For the mustard cream: 200ml double cream, 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar, salt and pepper, a small bunch of chives
  • Mixed leaves, dressed with shallot vinaigrette, to serve

Method

  1. Poach the sausage gently in barely simmering water for 30 minutes, cool in the cooking liquid 20 minutes, then drain and pat dry. Refrigerate until firm.
  2. For the brioche, whisk flour, sugar, salt and yeast in a stand mixer.
  3. Add cold eggs and cold milk; knead with the dough hook 5 minutes to a smooth wet dough.
  4. Add the cold butter cubes one at a time, kneading between each, until fully incorporated and the dough is glossy. This takes 12 to 15 minutes; the dough should look silky and pull from the sides of the bowl.
  5. Cover and prove 1 hour at room temperature, then refrigerate 4 hours or overnight to firm up.
  6. Roll the cold brioche on a lightly floured surface to a rectangle slightly longer than the sausage and about 30cm wide.
  7. Place the cold sausage on the brioche and roll up tightly, sealing the seam with a little water and pinching the ends closed.
  8. Place seam-down in a long buttered loaf tin or on a parchment-lined tray.
  9. Brush all over with egg wash. Prove 90 minutes until visibly puffy.
  10. Heat oven to 180C. Brush a second time with egg wash. Bake 40 to 45 minutes until deep gold and the internal temperature reads 75C.
  11. Rest 15 minutes. Meanwhile reduce the cream by half in a small pan; whisk in mustard and vinegar; season and finish with snipped chives.
  12. Slice the warm loaf into thick rounds. Serve each with a spoon of mustard cream and a small heap of dressed leaves.

Tip from the editors. The sausage must be cold when rolled inside the brioche; a warm sausage cooks the dough from the inside and the loaf collapses. Bake the moment the loaf has visibly puffed; over-proved brioche tears in the oven.

Where to eat saucisson brioché

Saucisson brioché in Lyon

Brasserie Georges ★ 4.3

Brasserie€€Sun-Thu 11:30-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:30-00:15Until Mon-Thu and Sun 23:00, Fri-Sat 00:00

Brasserie Georges on Cours de Verdun in Lyon's 2e is the 1836 brasserie that runs full kitchen until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, with walk-in tables.

Try: Choucroute, steak tartare, onion soup

Tip: Walk-in after 21:00 for the no-reservation slot; steak tartare is made tableside.

Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean ★ 4.5

Lyonnais Bouchon€€5eTue-Thu 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-14:00, 19:00-23:30, closed Sun-Mon

Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean in Vieux Lyon is Joseph Viola's bouchon in the old town, where the pate en croute won the world championship and remains.

Signature: Pate en croute, Quenelle

Order: The pate en croute as a starter, then the quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; book three days ahead; service can run long.

Le Garet ★ 4.5

Lyonnais Bouchon€€1erMon-Fri 12:00-14:00, 19:30-22:00, closed Sat-Sun

Le Garet on Rue du Garet in Lyon's 1er is the canonical bouchon, four blocks from the Opera, with a chalkboard menu rooted in the classic Lyonnais repertoire.

Signature: Tablier de sapeur, Quenelle de brochet

Order: Tablier de sapeur to start, then the quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; book a fortnight ahead for the dinner service.

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