The defining regional barbecue of Santa Barbara County: a bottom sirloin tri-tip cut rubbed with salt, pepper, and garlic, then cooked over coast live oak coals at an adjustable iron grate raised and lowered by a hand crank. Served sliced thin alongside pinquito beans (small pink beans indigenous to the Santa Maria Valley), salsa, and grilled French bread soaked in the drippings.
Where to eat it: 1 restaurant across 1 city.
History
The Santa Maria barbecue tradition originates in the mid-19th century, when Californio ranchers hosted large-scale feasts for vaqueros over earthen pits of coast live oak coals. The Santa Maria Club began formal monthly Stag Barbecues in 1931. The tri-tip cut itself was popularised in the 1950s by Santa Maria butcher Bob Schutz of the Santa Maria Market, who started selling the previously overlooked bottom sirloin triangle as a roasting cut. Today the tradition is centred in Santa Maria (60 miles north) but defines Santa Barbara County's food identity.
Coast live oak wood chunks for the grill (substitute red oak if unavailable)
For pinquito beans: 1 lb dried pinquito beans (substitute pinto if unavailable), 4 strips bacon, 1 small onion diced, 2 cloves garlic, 1 can diced tomatoes, salt, chilli powder
Method
The day before, soak pinquito beans overnight. Simmer with bacon, onion, garlic, tomatoes, and spices for 2 to 3 hours until tender. Season to taste.
An hour before cooking, rub the tri-tip generously with the salt, pepper, and garlic mixture on all sides.
Build a fire in a kettle grill or offset smoker using oak wood. Let it burn down to medium-high coals.
Cook the tri-tip fat-side up over direct heat for 10 minutes to render and start a crust.
Flip and cook the other side 10 minutes. Move to indirect heat, close the lid, and cook until internal temperature reaches 135F (57C) for medium-rare, approximately 20 to 30 more minutes.
Rest uncovered on a board for 10 minutes. Slice against the grain in thin strips.
Serve with warm pinquito beans and salsa alongside grilled French bread brushed with butter.
Tip from the editors. The grain of tri-tip changes direction partway through the roast; look for this inflection point while slicing and rotate the cut accordingly to keep every slice tender.
Third-generation family seafood house on the harbour dock since 1986. Award-winning clam chowder, garlic clams, bar overlooking the marina. No reservations.
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