History

Santa Maria-style barbecue descends from the mid-1800s ranchero feasts of the Santa Maria Valley, thirty miles south of San Luis Obispo, where vaqueros grilled beef over coastal red oak. The rules stay strict: open pit, red oak, a dry rub of little more than salt, pepper and garlic, no sauce on the meat, and small pink pinquito beans on the side. In San Luis Obispo the style burns on at Old SLO BBQ Co., the Madonna Inn's oak pit and the Thursday night market grills.

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 40 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5 kg top sirloin or tri-tip
  • 1 tbsp coarse salt
  • 2 tsp black pepper
  • 2 tsp garlic salt
  • 500 g pinquito or small pink beans, soaked overnight
  • 100 g bacon, diced
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 200 ml tomato puree
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • Fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and coriander
  • Crusty bread and butter for grilling
  • Red oak logs or chips

Method

  1. Simmer the soaked beans in fresh water until tender, about 90 minutes.
  2. Fry the bacon with onion and garlic, stir in tomato puree and paprika, then fold into the drained beans and simmer 20 minutes.
  3. Rub the beef with salt, pepper and garlic salt and bring it to room temperature.
  4. Grill over red oak, turning often, to an internal 54C for medium-rare, 30 to 45 minutes depending on thickness.
  5. Rest 10 minutes and slice across the grain into thick ribbons.
  6. Serve with the beans, fresh salsa and buttered bread toasted over the fire.

Tip from the editors. No sauce touches the meat in the Santa Maria style; if you cannot find pinquito beans, small pink chilli beans come closest.

Where to eat santa maria-style barbecue

Santa Maria-style barbecue in San Luis Obispo

Old SLO BBQ Co. ★ 4.2

Barbecue$$DowntownSun-Wed 11:00-21:00; Thu-Sat 11:00-02:00Until 02:00 Thu-Sat

Old SLO BBQ Co. carves oak-smoked tri-tip until 02:00 three nights every week, easily the most substantial late plate in downtown San Luis Obispo.

Try: Tri-tip plates and pulled pork

Tip: There is a second counter at 3870 Broad Street; downtown is the late one, open to 02:00 Thursday to Saturday.

Alex Madonna's Gold Rush Steak House ★ 4.3

Steakhouse$$$$Madonna RoadDaily 17:00-22:00Book Book ahead for weekend pink-booth tables ahead

Alex Madonna's Gold Rush Steak House barbecues steaks over an oak pit inside the pink-on-pink Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo's 1958 roadside fantasia.

Order: An oak-pit steak, then a slice of pink champagne cake from the bakery case.

Tip: The filet mignon is the house's most popular steak; stay for cake from the on-site bakery.

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