Hand-harvested by hookah divers from Channel Islands kelp beds, Santa Barbara red sea urchin is prized for a sweet, briny, creamy flavour that reflects the cold upwellings and rich kelp forests of the Santa Barbara Channel. The roe is golden-orange in colour and significantly cleaner in taste than alum-preserved imported alternatives. A quarter of the annual local catch is exported to Japan.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
History
The Santa Barbara Channel urchin industry expanded significantly in the 1970s when Japanese export markets emerged; before that, urchins were treated as kelp-farm pests destroyed by commercial divers to protect abalone populations. Diver Stephanie Mutz and other small-boat operators now sell directly at the Saturday Fisherman's Market at the harbour, alongside the wholesale catch that supplies restaurants across the city.
4 oz (120g) fresh Santa Barbara sea urchin roe (2 trays)
4 slices of good sourdough bread
2 tbsp unsalted butter
Flaky sea salt
1 lemon, quartered
Optional: 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds or a few drops of yuzu juice
Method
Toast the sourdough until golden and crisp. Butter generously while still hot.
Remove the urchin roe from the tray with a small spoon, handling gently as the lobes are delicate.
Lay two to three lobes per toast slice, keeping them whole rather than spreading.
Finish with a pinch of flaky salt and a squeeze of lemon over each piece.
Serve immediately; the roe softens and loses texture within minutes of plating.
Tip from the editors. Fresh Santa Barbara uni needs nothing beyond salt and lemon. If the roe tastes bitter rather than sweet, it is not fresh; return it to the vendor.
Fish-shack counter at the tip of Stearns Wharf since 1980. Same-day-landed Channel crab, sea urchin, and shellfish on a communal outdoor deck with bay views.
Signature: Fresh sea urchin, Steamed rock crab, Lobster bisque
Third-generation family seafood house on the harbour dock since 1986. Award-winning clam chowder, garlic clams, bar overlooking the marina. No reservations.
Signature: New England clam chowder, Garlic baked clams, Oysters on the half shell