History
Washington DC has the largest Salvadoran population in the United States. The community settled along Mount Pleasant Street, Columbia Heights and Wheaton MD through the 1980s civil-war refugee waves, and pupuserias spread from the corner of 16th and Mount Pleasant outward through the next decades. The pupusa, a thick hand-patted corn cake stuffed with cheese, refried beans, chicharron pork or loroco flower, is El Salvador's national dish and DC's defining street snack. It is griddled on a flattop until lightly golden, then served with curtido (a fermented cabbage relish) and a thin tomato salsa. Don Juan's on Mount Pleasant Street, Pupuseria San Miguel on 14th, El Sol de America in Wheaton and Los Hermanos in Wheaton run the canonical versions; expect to pay $4 per pupusa, $12 for a plate of three with rice and beans.
Make it at home
Yield Makes 12 pupusasHands-on 45 minTotal 75 minDifficulty Intermediate
Ingredients
- 500g masa harina (instant corn flour)
- 1 teaspoon fine salt
- 550ml warm water
- 300g shredded mozzarella or Salvadoran queso quesillo
- 200g refried red beans (optional, for revueltas)
- 1 small white cabbage, shredded, plus 1 carrot grated, mixed with 60ml white vinegar and 1 teaspoon salt for curtido
- 200g chopped tomatoes, blended with quarter onion and salt for salsa
Method
- Mix masa, salt and warm water in a bowl until you have a soft, pliable dough. Cover and rest 10 minutes.
- Pinch off a golf-ball of dough. Flatten into a thick disc on your palm, indent the centre with your thumb, fill with a tablespoon of cheese (and a teaspoon of refried beans for a revuelta), pinch the dough closed, then re-flatten gently into a 10cm disc 1cm thick.
- Heat a dry cast-iron griddle or flat pan over medium heat. Griddle each pupusa 3 to 4 minutes a side, until lightly browned and slightly puffed. The cheese should ooze at the edges.
- Serve immediately with a heap of curtido on top and the tomato salsa on the side.
Tip from the editors. Wet your hands with water as you shape each pupusa to prevent sticking; a dry hand cracks the dough at the seam.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.