History

The pink soup traces to Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth tables and shares roots with Polish chłodnik. The kefir base distinguishes the Lithuanian version. Šaltibarščiai is so signature in Vilnius summer that the city runs the Pink Soup Fest every June with parade and tasting stops. Eat it everywhere from Etno Dvaras to Senoji Trobelė to Užupio Kavinė through summer.

Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500 g cooked beetroot, peeled and grated or julienned
  • 1 cucumber, finely diced
  • 4 hard-boiled eggs, halved
  • 4 boiled potatoes (served separately, hot)
  • 1 litre kefir (full-fat preferred)
  • 200 ml cold water
  • 1 small bunch fresh dill, chopped
  • 4 spring onions, finely sliced
  • Salt and white pepper
  • Juice of half a lemon

Method

  1. Combine kefir and cold water in a large bowl. Whisk until smooth.
  2. Add grated beetroot, cucumber, half the dill, all spring onions, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Stir well.
  3. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes; serve cold.
  4. Boil potatoes separately; keep them hot until serving.
  5. Ladle soup into bowls. Top with halved boiled eggs and remaining dill. Serve with hot boiled potatoes on the side.

Tip from the editors. Serve the boiled potatoes hot and separate; eaten alongside, not in. Use full-fat kefir for the proper Lithuanian texture.

Where to eat šaltibarščiai

Šaltibarščiai in Vilnius

Etno Dvaras (Aušros Vartų) ★ 4.0

€€ LithuanianSenamiestis

Etno Dvaras on Aušros Vartų cooks dishes certified by the Lithuanian Culinary Heritage Fund in a cavernous cellar with street-level windows on the strip.

OrderCepelinai with bacon-mushroom sauce; pair with a bowl of šaltibarščiai cold beet soup.

TipHeritage Fund certification means every dish must be 100 years old by recipe. Touristy but real.

Senoji Trobelė ★ 4.2

€€ LithuanianNaujamiestis

Senoji Trobelė on Naugarduko is a family-run Lithuanian room with painted ceilings and a 75-percent Žalgiris mead balsam fermented for two years.

OrderCepelinai with curd cheese; finish with a glass of Žalgiris mead balsam.

TipTwelve minutes uphill from Vokiečių. Order the daily-baked linseed leaven bread to start.

Užupio Kavinė ★ 4.0

€€ LithuanianUzupis

Užupio Kavinė sits on the Vilnelė riverbank at the edge of the Republic of Užupis, the longest-running Lithuanian dining room of the bohemian district.

OrderCepelinai with curd cheese; cold beet šaltibarščiai in summer with new potatoes.

TipThe terrace over the Vilnelė is the seat to ask for. The Užupis Constitution wall is across the bridge.

Šnekutis ★ 4.3

€€ LithuanianSenamiestis

Šnekutis on Šv. Mikalojaus pours 30-plus Lithuanian beers including small-brewery filtered and unfiltered, with cepelinai and smoked-pig snacks.

OrderCepelinai with spirgučiai pork cracklings; pick the unfiltered farmhouse ale.

TipUžupis branch closed; this Mikalojaus room is the original Šnekutis. Book ahead for evening.

Lokys ★ 4.3

€€ LithuanianSenamiestisUntil Daily 24:00

Lokys on Stiklių stays open to midnight every night; the medieval cellar that has fed Vilnius wild boar and venison since 1972 takes late-evening covers.

TryWild boar with lingonberry

TipLast bookings around 22:00; walk-ins possible later in the cellar. A solid post-Alchemikas dinner option.

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