Risotto al salto is Milan's pan-fried risotto cake: leftover risotto giallo pressed into a thin disc and fried in butter until a golden crust forms on both sides. The classical Milanese Monday lunch.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Risotto al salto (literally 'risotto with a flip') is the canonical use-up dish for yesterday's risotto giallo, codified in 19th-century Milanese kitchen manuscripts and Pellegrino Artusi's 1891 cookbook. The dish takes a portion of cold leftover risotto, presses it into a 1cm-thick disc in a hot pan with butter, and pan-fries it on both sides until a deep golden crust forms. The interior stays creamy. Trattoria Masuelli San Marco serves the canonical version with seasonal toppings (porcini in autumn, asparagus in spring); Ratana modernises it with a sous-vide reheat trick.
Common allergens: Dairy
Tip from the editors. The risotto must be cold and firm. Warm risotto won't hold its shape in the pan; refrigerate overnight, even if you have to skip the leftover-from-yesterday tra
Trattoria Masuelli San Marco in Milan's Porta Romana has cooked the Lombard canon since 1921, family-run by the Masuelli family for four generations.
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Ossobuco, Cassoeula
Order: The risotto alla milanese with bone marrow, the ossobuco and the cassoeula in winter.
Tip: Bookings open ten days ahead by phone. Cash and card; the wine list runs deep on Lombard producers.
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello in Milan's south-east has cooked the Lombard trattoria canon since 1927, near the old slaughterhouse. Located in Porta Romana.
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Ossobuco
Order: The risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese with bone in, and the ossobuco when on the carte.
Tip: Bookings open one month ahead on the website. Lunch is the calmer service; Friday evening fills up first.
Antica Trattoria della Pesa in Milan's Porta Garibaldi has cooked the Lombard farmstead canon since 1880, set in the old grain-weighing house.
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Ossobuco, Cassoeula
Order: The risotto alla milanese, the ossobuco and the cassoeula in winter.
Tip: Bookings open one week ahead by phone. The dining room has the original 1880 wood-panel interior; ask for a table by the window.
Ratana in Milan's Isola district is Cesare Battisti's modern Lombard kitchen, housed in a 19th-century railway building since 2009. Priced at €€€.
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Ossobuco
Order: The risotto alla milanese with bone marrow, the cotoletta alla milanese and the ossobuco.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. Lunch sittings 12:30 and 14:00; dinner from 19:30. The garden is the spot in summer.
Da Giacomo in Milan's Porta Venezia is the Tuscan-seafood dining room of the Bulgheroni family, opened 1989 and a Milanese fashion-week institution.
Signature: Spaghetti allo scoglio, Cotoletta alla milanese, Fritto misto
Order: The spaghetti allo scoglio, the cotoletta alla milanese in the orecchio di elefante form and the fritto misto.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The Bistrot Da Giacomo next door is the easier walk-up sister room.
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