History

Reindeer has been on Norwegian tables for centuries, originally from Sami herders in Finnmark and Troms in the north; Oslo's fine-dining and traditional rooms keep it on the menu year-round. The autumn slaughter runs October through January and the freshest meat reaches Oslo from the Karasjok and Kautokeino reindeer cooperatives. Lofoten Fiskerestaurant, Bagatelle and Statholdergaarden run the canonical version with juniper, lingonberry and root vegetables.

Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 600g reindeer fillet or sirloin, trimmed (substitute venison loin)
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil
  • 50g unsalted butter
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 10 juniper berries, lightly crushed
  • 2 shallots, finely diced
  • 300ml beef or game stock
  • 200ml double cream
  • 2 tbsp lingonberry jam, plus more to serve
  • 30g brown goat cheese (brunost), grated
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Boiled almond potatoes and steamed cavolo nero, to serve

Method

  1. Take the meat out of the fridge 40 minutes before cooking. Pat dry, season heavily with salt and pepper.
  2. Heat the oven to 180C. In an ovenproof pan, heat the oil over high heat until shimmering. Sear the fillet 90 seconds per side until deeply browned all over.
  3. Add the butter, thyme and half the juniper. Baste for 1 minute, then transfer the pan to the oven for 5 to 7 minutes for medium-rare (54C internal). Rest on a board, tented, for 10 minutes.
  4. Discard the thyme. Add the shallots to the pan and cook 3 minutes over medium heat until soft.
  5. Pour in the stock and the remaining juniper, scrape the base of the pan, and reduce by half. Add the cream and reduce another 3 to 4 minutes until coating.
  6. Whisk in the lingonberry jam and the grated brunost off the heat. Taste for salt and pepper.
  7. Slice the fillet across the grain into 1cm coins. Plate with potatoes and greens, spoon over the sauce and finish with an extra spoon of lingonberry.

Tip from the editors. Reindeer is leaner than beef and overcooks in seconds. Pull the meat at 52C; carryover gets you to 56C, which is the sweet spot.

Where to eat reindeer (reinsdyr)

Reindeer (reinsdyr) in Oslo

Statholdergaarden 1 ★ ★ 4.7

NordicChef Bent Stiansen$$$$$1750kvadraturenMon-Sat 18:00-00:00, Sun closedBook 3 months ahead

Statholdergaarden in Oslo's Kvadraturen has held its Michelin star since 1998 with chef Bent Stiansen at the pass, under 18th-century stucco ceilings.

Engebret Café ★ 4.8

Traditional Norwegian$$$kvadraturenMon-Fri 11:30-23:00, Sat 17:00-23:00, Sun closed

Engebret Café at Bankplassen 1 is Oslo's oldest continuously operating restaurant, founded 1857 by Engebret Christoffersen, in a 1760s listed building.

Signature: Lutefisk in season, Reindeer fillet

Order: Lutefisk in the November-December season; reindeer fillet year-round.

Tip: Open from 17:00 weekdays; the lutefisk season runs through Advent and books out by mid-November.

Asylet ★ 4.1

Traditional Norwegian$$gronlandMon 11:00-22:00, Tue-Fri 11:00-00:00, Sat 12:00-00:00, Sun 12:00-22:00

Asylet on Grønland in Oslo's old town is the wood-panelled 1730 merchant-yard timber building, one of the city's oldest, serving kjottkaker.

Signature: Kjottkaker with mash, Reindeer stew

Order: Kjottkaker with brown sauce and lingonberry; reindeer stew in winter.

Tip: The courtyard runs late spring through summer; the back-bar fireplace is the winter seat.

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